We have been fans of the otherworldly landscape that is the Alabama Hills, found in the Eastern Sierra along our southern migration route.
When Steve discovered a mid-century architectural gem, hidden amongst the granite giants, we knew a detour was in order.First, let's talk about the architect (one we are very familiar with due to his masterpieces in Palm Springs). When Time magazine put Richard J. Neutra on the cover of its August 15, 1949 issue, the Austrian-born architect had been designing astounding modernist houses for more than 20 years—houses, Time said, with "broad, glassy brows" and "spaciousness and compactness combined." Neutra (1892–1970) was a prophet of clean, crisp modernism, and his houses, most of which were built in California, have inspired countless architects and emboldened preservationists in an area of the country notoriously quick to raze landmarks. And why not? As Time eloquently observed, "Their beauty, like that of any sea shell, is more than skin-deep—practical, not pretentious." I addition, the magazine ranked him, second only to Frank Lloyd Wright, among America’s greatest architects.
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I read somewhere, while researching, that the Oyler Family would spend Christmas back East and the Neutra Family would stay in the home he designed, here in Lone Pine. They became very great friends. How very, very cool.The house was surprisingly small for a family with five children. For 25 years, the Oylers lived in this 3 bedroom, 3 bath, 2,294 sq. ft. Neutra masterpiece.
The Alabama Hills provided a compelling scene for a mid-century architectural masterpiece. The moderate climate allowed Neutra to play with openness by pairing large glass walls with post and beam construction to allow the varied angles and features of the landscape–from Mount Whitney to the quartz-monzonite monoliths, to the vast expanse of the Owens Valley– to create the illusion that the indoor space extends forever into the surrounding scenery.
I was mesmerized by the pool. In the original plans, above, Neutra had made an inground pool (all the rage in Palm Springs). Oyler being a very conscientious Dad thought it was too dangerous (it's behind Steve).Seeing this bowl-shaped, above-ground boulder fill with rain, Oyler had an idea. He reached out to his father-in-law, a hard-rock miner, and asked him if it was possible to actually turn it into a pool.Armed with a plan, and encouraged by his wife's father, Oyler subsequently recruited local mine employees and friends to drill a hole into the ideal boulder to be filled with hose water as a pool. How very, very cool. Sadly, when we were there, the pool was empty but we could envision the summer memories made there.And the diving man, pictured, is Richard Oyler himself, delighting in his grand idea. If you want to know more about this magical place, there is a documentary on youtube. So worth the watch.As we were driving back to 395, we saw the strangest geological formation. The hillside looked like molten mud. We had to get out and explore this natural architectural creation.There are hundreds of natural arches throughout the Alabama Hills Recreation Area. Normally hidden, the best way to find arches is by walking around the rock formations since they blend in with the surrounding rocks. It was so strange to see Cave House Arch right there, out in the open, calling to us. What an interesting conclusion to our Lone Pine detour. Wow.
"I am an eyewitness to the ways in which people
relate to themselves and to each other,
and my work is a way of scooping
and ladling that experience."
-Richard Neutra
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