SWAMP Tour & So Much More

Last year, at about this same time, we were in the Low Country with our older son and his family. We spent one of our most favorite days at Cypress Gardens. Michael and Sharon, who have lived here for decades, had it on their list of things to do in their retirement. We were so excited for the opportunity to return to this incredibly magical place.

Cypress Gardens' history dates back to 1725, when Alexander Nesbitt was given 3,100 acres on the east side of the Cooper River. When he arrived from England to the Carolinas, he began to build on this property and named the plantation Dean Hall after his homeland of Dean, Scotland.
And how did it become this amazing park? Benjamin Kittredge, who bought the property in 1909 for a private duck hunting reserve, developed the walking trails and opened it to the public after he and his wife became enchanted by the natural beauty. The property was later donated to the City of Charleston in 1963 and then transferred to Berkeley County in 1996. What a gift!
The highlight of being here, for me, is actually BEING in a swamp. "Experience the wild beauty of the swamp on a scenic boat ride through Cypress Gardens. Our exciting swamp boat rides offer a unique view of our vast garden landscape. Revel in the reflections of towering bald cypress and tupelo trees mirrored in the blackwater. Paddle along a marked trail and keep an eye out for alligators, turtles, birds, lily pads, and other swamp life."
We were practically alone which gave us the opportunity to meader about at a very leisurely pace. Oh man, so much fun!

We were told that on weekends, the wait for a boat could be 5-6 hours long. I've seen photos where it looks like a train going through the swap. We delighted in our aloneness.







It wasn't until we were about to dock that we spied an alligator. What fun! Interestingly, at about this same time, Sharon received a text that a gator was spotted in the pond behind their house. Hysterical timing, indeed.




Next stop was at the very coolly named Swaparium. Here we "journeyed through the wetlands of the world with extraordinary animals like the South American anaconda and African crocodiles, all showcased in immersive, naturalistic habitats." So awesome.
A true delight was being surrounded by dozens of fluttering and gracious butterflies. The Cypress Gardens Butterfly House is the largest butterfly breeding facility in the state.


The flowers were spectacular!





With miles of walking paths, nature trails, and boardwalks winding through its 80 acres, we ended our visit by exploring the blackwater swamp from its periphery.




Dinner and strolling happened in the historic heart of Summerville. A must was a visit with Mason, the World’s Largest Sweet Tea, a 15-foot-tall mason jar. On June 10, 2016 (National Iced Tea Day), Summerville set the Guinness World Record for the World's Largest Iced/Sweet Tea holding 2,524 gallons.To make this much beverage they used 210 pounds of loose-leaf tea, 1,700 pounds of sugar, and 3,000 pounds of ice. By the way, sweet tea is NOT my cup of tea (look at that ratio of tea to sugar).
We dined at Montreux whose building first appears on the 1895 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map. Originally, it was a wood-frame dwelling featuring a full-length porch along its facade. Over the decades, the wood-frame structure was expanded to nearly twice its original width and rebuilt using brick. Despite these renovations, it kept its distinctive two-story wooden porch. What a great spot!

Our day concluded at the Scarecrows on the Square. Each fall, local businesses, families, schools, and organizations create festive displays featured in the town square to celebrate the autumn spirit. The funds raised benefit local school districts, providing school supplies for students and teachers.




Old friends. New memories. Fabulous day!

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A 17-Year Long (Distance) Friendship...

I have two very dear friendships that formed because of our year spent in Spoleto, Italy, one of most amazing events of our lives. David and Karen are Southern California friends whose story can be found here. Sharon's story hasn't been told in 10 years and it's time.

I 'met' Sharon 17 years ago via an email. Charleston was Spoleto's Sister City. Our plan was to spend a month in Charleston (prior to going abroad) volunteering for the annual Spoleto Festival. It was an opportunity to get involved and hopefully be their Sister City's representatives while in Italy. Sharon was my contact because of her work with the Spoleto-Charleston Initiative Steering Committee. Without her, our year in Spoleto could not have been nearly as magical. This is what I wrote then about Sharon upon finally meeting her, "The one person who made all of this happen, for us, is our friend Sharon. Since July (2009), we have been communicating about this adventure and she is the one who opened the door, put down the welcome mat and said, "Come".  I've been calling her friend, since the beginning, and when we met in May (2010), it was a title that fit perfectly.  She has been instrumental in so much of this and no amount of words can really express our gratitude."
Ten years ago, on a previous cross-country road trip, we had the opportunity to not only spend time with Sharon, but we got to get to know her husband, Michael. They were the hosts with the mosts then and really shared some amazing local sights with us.
It's hard to believe it has been a DECADE. Our long overdue reconnect happened at their lovely home where for hours we made an unsuccessful effort to get all caught up. Thankfully, we're here for a few days. Promises were made to not wait so long to do this again.

“Real friends were the kind
where you pick up where you’d left off,
whether it be a week since you’d seen each
other or two years.”
― Jojo Moyes

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CHERAW, SC... Who Knew?

We're officially on our way south. South Carolina is the state in which we will spend the most time.

Today was one of putting on some miles.
As mentioned before, we tend to take the road less traveled. The cotton fields we encountered were a surprise and seemed to be the conclusion for our recent history lessons.
I didn't realize that cotton was still a major agricultural commodity in South Carolina, ranking as the state's 3rd most valuable crop with an annual production value of roughly $174.6 million. Farmers harvest hundreds of thousands of bales annually (yielding over 400,000 bales in recent seasons). I loved the big, pink 'marshmallows'.

There were also fields which seemed to exist just to bring me JOY.

The road we were on was an unexpected history lesson, in and of itself. The Jefferson Davis Highway was a transcontinental road in the 1910s and 1920s that began in Arlington County, Virginia, and extended south and west to San Diego. It was named for Jefferson Davis, President of the Confederate States, United States senator, and Secretary of War. Because of unintended conflict between the National Auto Trail movement and the federal government, it is unclear whether it ever really existed in the complete form that its United Daughters of the Confederacy (UDC) founders originally intended but here it was and we were on it. Wow.
Cheraw, a historic town located on the Great Pee Dee River, is known locally as "The Prettiest Town in Dixie" which was what made us want to explore it. What we found was a town with an obvious heyday. Today it is very quiet while it features a 213-acre National Register Historic District with well-preserved antebellum homes and buildings dating back to the 1700s.
With over 300 years of history, the town began as a small trading post on the Great Pee Dee River. Joseph and Eli Kershaw were granted part of present day Cheraw in 1768. The brothers formally laid out the present wide streets and the town green. Since Cheraw was at the head of navigable waters on the river, the town became a bustling river port during the 19th century, boasting the largest bank in South Carolina outside of Charleston and the largest cotton market between Georgetown and Wilmington.



One always knows something is important if there is a vintage postcard depicting it. The Post Office, built in 1933 as part of the large-scale Federal building initiative during the Great Depression, was designed using a mix of Colonial Revival and Neo-Classical styles, featuring standard oversight from James A. Wetmore, then Supervising Architect for the U.S. Treasury Department. Located in the heart of town, the building stands as a landmark of mid-20th-century federal architecture and community history



I was intrigued by the B.C. Moore & Sons (1912) building in downtown. Our walking map didn't mention this 4-story historic building featuring 3 floors above street level plus a basement. I learned that it served as the main administrative offices—including the buying and advertising departments—for the regional B.C. Moore & Sons department store chain before the company was sold.


We strolled through the neighborhood, discovering so much history. This, the Lafayette House (c. 1823), was built by Dr. William Ellerbe. In 1825, when General Lafayette visited the United States, a public reception was held at the house all part of the Marquis' 1824–1825 farewell tour of the United States. Considered one of the largest national celebrations in early American history, he traveled as the "Nation's Guest" at the invitation of President James Monroe. The 67-year-old general embarked on a 13-month, 6,000-mile journey that took him to all 24 existing states. At Monticello, we were told, he and Jefferson completely exhausted the President's stock of wine.

This was yet another fun discovery. Jazz King Dizzy Gillespie is Cheraw’s most famous son. This founder of modern jazz was an innovative trumpeter known for his bent horn, bulging cheeks, and sense of humor. Born here on Oct. 21, 1917, he was the ninth and last child of James and Lottie Gillespie. His given name was John Birks Gillespie, and many of his old friends still refer to him as John Birks. In his autobiography Dizzy says, “In Cheraw mischief, money making and music captured all my attention."


This was the site of the Gillespie family home. A park and SC Historic Marker honoring Gillespie were dedicated at this site in October 2002. Artist Bob Doster crafted a stainless steel fence, surrounding the park, depicting the notes to “Salt Peanuts”, one of Gillespie’s best known works.
Our last stop was at Old St. David's Church, the last Anglican parish established in South Carolina under British rule. The church was established in 1768 and the building completed in 1774.
After the Revolutionary War, in which St. David's served as a hospital for both sides, the church ended its affiliation with the Church of England.

In June 1780, roughly 300 soldiers of the 71st Regiment of Foot (Fraser's Highlanders), led by Major Archibald McArthur, encamped at Laney Landing on the Great Pee Dee River following the Siege of Charleston. A severe outbreak of suspected mosquito-borne illness (malaria or swamp fever) struck the Scottish troops shortly after their arrival. Old St. David's Episcopal Church served as a hospital for the sick and dying soldiers. Deceased officers and men of the 71st were buried in the churchyard.

This grave marker introduced us to Captain Moses Rogers, a globally-recognized steamship captain. Captain Rogers is credited with the commercial boom enjoyed by Cheraw in the early part of the nineteenth century.
“Cemeteries are like a giant library of stories.”
― A.L. Mengel, The Mortician
Our home for the evening could not have been more idyllic!
Cool spaces. Natural setting. Animal feeding and cuddling. What a perfect start to our time in South Carolina.








We've traversed 7,457 miles of America with so much farther to go. New vistas continue to surprise and delight.

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