Thomas Jefferson's MONTICELLO

For more than forty years (1768-1809), Thomas Jefferson designed and redesigned his mountaintop home, creating an architectural masterpiece that reflects his ideas and evolving vision. Monticello was home to Jefferson and his family, generations of enslaved people, and a house that welcomed visitors from around the globe. Through a century of research, Monticello is restored to how it appeared during Thomas Jefferson's retirement years (1809 - 1826).

Monticello is where Jefferson refined the ideas of freedom established in the Declaration. It is both a tribute to, and the embodiment of, the American experiment and we were so excited to return after a 28 year absence.
We were here for a very special new tour. "On July 4, 1826, Thomas Jefferson and John Adams died on the fiftieth anniversary of the Declaration of Independence. In commemoration of the 250th, Founding Friends, Founding Foes explores Adams and Jefferson's complicated relationship. In this 60 minute tour of the first floor of the house, visitors will learn how these founders became allies in 1776, bitter rivals in an age of partisanship, and friends again in retirement.

By considering the challenges and triumphs of the American Revolution and the early United States, this tour reveals how ordinary people became leaders and encourages visitors to consider how a democracy was born through disagreement, civil discourse, and dedication to shared value."
We arrived early for our timed tour so we explored under Monticello.
The cellar level of the house was a horizontal and vertical crossroads constantly in motion. Here, enslaved domestic workers, Jefferson family members, slaves accompanying Monticello visitors, waggoners delivering supplies, and anyone else using Monticello's work spaces crossed paths.
Steve is standing directly below the dining room in the Wine Cellar. This exhibit showcases Thomas Jefferson’s work as a wine maker (and a wine drinker) and  featured interpretive signs, bottle reproductions, and a restored dumbwaiter.
The last time we were here, the one thing that really stood out was the dumbwaiter.  Located on both sides of the dining room fireplace mantel, these systems used ropes and pulleys connected to the wine cellar directly below. Wine bottles were loaded up in the cellar so they could be raised up into the dining room on demand (photo below in dining room). So dang clever.

I was intrigued by these weights of the Great Clock that shows the second, minute, hour, and day of the week. It is showcased in the Entrance Hall (below).
Just a side note about the Jefferson nickel. Designed by sculptor Felix Schlag following a national contest in 1938, it was FDR who thought that America needed to go back to Jeffersonian ideals. It was his idea to put our 3rd president's face on the front of the 5¢ coin and Monticello on the back. Interesting, right?
A fun explore was had in the Vegetable Garden. The 1,000-foot long garden terrace served as both a source of food and an experimental laboratory where Jefferson experimented with 330 vegetable varieties.


I could envision him sitting in this pavillion, admiring all around him. I know we did.



It's 10:30 and the tour has begun. We start as most visitors to Monticello do, in the Entrance Hall.
The Entrance Hall was the only room in Monticello that guests were guaranteed to see. Thomas Jefferson, always eager to educate, filled the room with such a variety of natural, historic, and artistic pieces that several guests described the room as a "museum" in their letters.

This is the Great Clock whose weights are in the cellar. "The face has a main dial with hour and minute hands with a small secondary dial with a sweeping seconds hand. The clock is powered by two sets of cannonball-like weights (eighteen pounds each) strung on ropes, which independently drive its ticking and the striking of a gong on the roof. As the clock winds down, the weights descend on either side of the clock via a pulley system and travel down the corners of the room, passing through holes in the floor to the cellar below. Labels are affixed on the wall along the path of the running ("ticking") weights and indicate the days of the week." Truthfully, that would be so handy, especially on this trip
Thomas Jefferson displayed a bust of his archenemy Alexander Hamilton in the Hall directly opposite his own bust so the two political rivals would remain "opposed in death as in life". We've learned that Jefferson was a funny guy.


Our tour shared so much about the man as we explored the important spaces in his life. After his morning routine, Thomas Jefferson settled into a lengthy period of letter-writing. Jefferson wrote almost 20,000 letters in his lifetime, among them, scholarly musings to colleagues, affectionate notes to his family, and civil responses to admirers. He wrote John Adams that he suffered "under the persecution of letters," calculating that he received 1,267 letters in the year 1820, "many of them requiring answers of elaborate research, and all to be answered with due attention and consideration."
And this gadget (he was very fond of gadgets) made me envious. Jefferson used a copying machine to make duplicate sets of his letters, which he kept in filing presses, tying them into bundles organized alphabetically and chronologically. This arrangement allowed Jefferson to pinpoint the location of any given letter, and even send for a particular one when he was away from Monticello.

In 1823 Jefferson wrote that "The letters of a person, especially one whose business has been chiefly transacted by letters, form the only full and genuine journal of his life." His surviving letters give insight into Jefferson's vast interests and reveal much about his personality.
I also loved his bedroom. Jefferson saw alcove beds during his years in France, and admired the space-saving qualities of these beds built into walls. Upon his return from Europe, Jefferson redesigned Monticello, adding at least one alcove (and sometimes two) in every bedroom. A continual innovator, he varied the design for his own bed, leaving both sides open to loosely connect his bedroom with his study. He also saved space by placing closets in the walls over his and other beds. His closet -- which has openings for air and light -- was accessible via a small ladder kept at the head of the bed. The man was so forward thinking. Wow.






In the Dining Room, Jefferson, his family, and many guests took meals twice a day. Common to the time, Jefferson used folding tables so that, after meals were finished, the room could be used to entertain. I love the color.
Yes, this is the famous dumbwaiter!
Back to the topic of this tour. Adams and Jefferson met at the Second Continental Congress in Philadelphia in 1775. They served on the Committee of Five in 1776, where Jefferson wrote the first draft of the Declaration of Independence and Adams strongly championed its adoption on the floor of Congress. In addition, they worked closely together in Europe representing the fledgling United States. Their families traveled together and by all accounts they were buddies. Jefferson wrote that he and Adams were often separated by "different conclusions we had drawn from our political reading." The two maintained their friendship despite their political differences until 1801, the year that Jefferson became president. It was a very bitter election, which Jefferson won, leading to a decade-long estrangement. 

Encouraged by mutual friend Benjamin Rush, they resumed their correspondence in 1811, exchanging roughly 380 rich, philosophical letters that healed their bond. Weirdly, both men died on July 4, 1826. Jefferson died earlier in the day at Monticello, while Adams died hours later in Massachusetts, famously not knowing Jefferson had already passed, uttering his last words: "At least Jefferson still lives."
Our tour ended with the story of this chair. 
The Rising Sun Chair was crafted in 1779 by Philadelphia cabinetmaker John Folwell. George Washington sat in the chair as the presiding officer throughout the Constitutional Convention at Independence Hall. At the close of the convention on September 17, 1787, Benjamin Franklin observed the half-sun carved into the chair's crest rail and famously remarked: "I have often looked at that picture behind the president without being able to tell whether it was a rising or a setting sun. But now at length I have the happiness to know that it is a rising and not a setting sun."  He said it to symbolize his shift from doubt to hope for the new American republic. It was with this quote that the tour ended.
How fun it was to meet Thomas Jefferson (as portrayed by veteran historical actor-interpreter Bill Barker). For 30 minutes, it was like we were in the company of our President.

No history lesson is complete without a visit to the cemetery. Before his death, Thomas Jefferson left explicit instructions regarding the monument to be erected over his grave. In this undated document, Jefferson supplied a sketch of the shape of the marker, and the epitaph with which he wanted it to be inscribed: "... on the faces of the Obelisk the following inscription, & not a word more: Here was buried Thomas Jefferson  Author of the Declaration of American Independence of the Statute of Virginia for religious freedom & Father of the University of Virginia "because by these," he explained, "as testimonials that I have lived, I wish most to be remembered." I believe he got his wish!
In an 1816 letter to John Adams, Thomas Jefferson wrote, "I like the dreams of the future better than the history of the past." While I can somewhat agree with his sentiment, today's immersion in the 'history of the past' is one which was not only thought provoking but thoroughly enjoyable as well. I💛History!

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The Last Couple of Days...

It's official! We're heading south.

Our home for the night was in the smallest U.S. state by area, covering about 1,545 square miles. It measures about 48 miles long from north to south and 37 miles wide. But as they say, "Nice things come in small packages".

There are only 144 laundromats throughout the entire state. When we found this one in North Kingstown, chores had to happen before more play could continue.
Our Wednesday destination was to stay with new friends in the tiny, peaceful coastal town of Jamestown, situated almost entirely on Conanicut Island in Narragansett Bay. It is the second-largest island in the Bay and is connected by bridges to the mainland and Newport. This was our second time here and we realized it had been far too long.
Since we had arrived earlier that our expected due time, we delighted in coffee by the harbor which allowed us to experience 23 mph winds. What fun.

We then meandered about and discovered this amazing masterpiece. Daniel S. Newhall House (The Monitor; The Round House) built in 1888, is attributed to Charles McKim. That name should sound familiar as he is the architect who created the Boston Public Library. Newhall, a Philadelphia client, is responsible for this shingled whimsy. It is sited low, close to the water on a cove, and semi-embowered, embraced by a boatyard. It is uncompromisingly round, 45 feet in diameter, as its successive names suggest. Did the distinguished McKim design it? A contemporary newspaper article says so, and architectural qualities reinforce the possibility. As a Philadelphian, he could have known Newhall personally. McKim, then in the midst of discovering colonial architecture, would have delighted in the opportunity to bend classical and American forms to such playful purpose. What a Jamestown gem. Wow.

Rhode Island is known as the Ocean State because of its 400 miles of coastline.
We connected with Richard and Nancy at my brother's 80th birthday party. An invitation was extended for us to come stay at their lovely home. We arrived in time for a tour of the local historical cemetery followed by a delightfully long, conversational-filled dinner.
What a perfect campsite! We've made yet another wonderful connection. Tim Cahill said it perfectly, “A journey is best measured in friends rather than miles."


Thursday night we boondocked in the borough of Conyingham, PA. Steve chose it because of its brewery.
With a population of only 1,600, it's hard to believe that such an amazing space as Conyingham Brewing Company can be so successful.
We dug its pirate vibe. This was a fun room in which to hang out.
Yes, we're back in Virginia. Tomorrow, our plan is to tour Thomas Jefferson's Monticello.
But first a stop at the world famous Buc-ee's.
For those who don't know, Buc-ee’s is a massive, 24/7 roadside travel center and convenience store chain that is best described as a hybrid of a supersized gas station, a department store, and a highway theme park. This was my second time experiencing it, Steve's first.
In the last two days we have traveled 568 miles. That doesn't leave a lot of time for doing much but driving. The stops we made were mostly ones of necessity (gas, pee breaks, stretches) but Buc-ee's allowed Steve to finally experience what all the hullabalaloo is about.

Our evening's campsite is in a little town, off the interstate. The surrounding businesses have closed for the weekend. It's just us and a family of deer. Pretty darn sweet.
"Where we love is home -
home that our feet may leave,
but not our hearts."
— Oliver Wendell Holmes Sr.

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