Custer State Park!

We spent the day and night in South Dakota's first and largest state park. It was a first for us and we kept asking ourselves, "What took us so long?"

Its history dates back to 1897 and I find it incredibly interesting. Just eight years after South Dakota joined the union, Congress granted to the state, sections 16 and 36 in every township as school lands. South Dakota had difficulties attempting to administer the scattered blocks of state school lands within the Black Hills timberland. In 1906, negotiations opened to exchange the scattered lands for a solid block. In 1910, South Dakota relinquished all rights to 60,000+ acres of timberland within the Black Hills Forest Reserve in exchange for nearly 50,000 acres of forest in Custer County and about 12,000 acres in Harding County. Together, these two parcels were designated Custer State Forest in 1912. After action by the State Legislature, having been prompted by the urgings of “prairie statesman” Governor Peter Norbeck, Custer State Forest became Custer State Park. Who knew?!
Bison wander the park’s 71,000 acres, which they share with pronghorn antelope, elk, mountain goats and a band of begging burros. Our animal sightings began almost immediately. Giddiness ensued.

Our first stop was at the Blue Bell Lodge, an early 1930's CCC project.

We were there for the coffee, and ironically, the buffalo sausage! Both were delicious.
A fun pause was at Prairie Dog Town where black-tailed prairie dogs live in social “towns”. The colonies help shape the prairie by clipping vegetation and turning soil, which attracts bison, burrowing owls, hawks, badgers, and snakes. Thankfully, we only saw the darling dogs.

These guys were a treat.  The burros are descendants of pack animals brought to the Black Hills by miners in the mid-1870s.
Sylvan Lake Lodge once used the donkeys to carry tourists up to the summit of Black Elk Peak. When the tourist rides stopped in the late 1920s, the working burros were released into the park to live in the wild.
They were incredibly friendly.

Our next stop was so informative. Completed in 2022, the Bison Center brought the story of the North American bison to life and answered so many questions we had.
The free roaming herd of nearly 1,400 bison at Custer State Park is one of the world's largest publicly owned bison herds.
All of these magnificent beasts are here because of a 1914 purchase of 36 Bison from a forward thinking rancher. Wow.




This is my favorite traffic jam... ever!

We only saw one pronghorn antelope but that was special enough.
And how about this amazing building? C.C. Gideon opened the Game Lodge on August 8, 1921. Only 72 days later, it burned down but was resurrected by the following June. In 1927, President Calvin Coolidge and Mrs. Coolidge spent three months at the Game Lodge calling it the “Summer White House”. How cool.
A stroll around the shore of Sylvan Lake ended our day of sightseeing.
We enjoyed a peaceful night at the aptly named Center Lake Campground, nestled in the center of Custer State Park. Poet Badger Clark described it as a place "where one can still be an unworried and unregimented individual, wear any old clothes, sit on a log, and get their sanity back again." We will return to this South Dakota treasure one day. 

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Day in Deadwood/Night in Custer

From movies watched and stories read, Deadwood has always had an allure.

It was here, 152 years ago, that the discovery of gold in the southern Black Hills set off one of the great gold rushes in America. In 1876, miners moved into the northern Black Hills. That’s where they came across a gulch full of dead trees and a creek full of gold and Deadwood was born.
Practically overnight, the tiny gold camp boomed into a town that played by its own rules that attracted outlaws, gamblers and gunslingers along with the gold seekers. Wild Bill Hickok was one of those men who came looking for fortune.
Wild Bill is probably the most famous Deadwood resident, even though he was only in town a few short weeks.  James Butler Hickok arrived in Deadwood, along with Colorado Charlie Utter and Calamity Jane, in July of 1876.  He was a well-known gambler and gunslinger, participating in many shootouts before coming to Deadwood. He was killed on August 2, 1876 when Jack McCall shot him from behind while playing poker. When he died, Wild Bill was holding a pair of aces and eights, that series of cards became known to poker players all around the world as the “Dead Man’s Hand."

Poor Calamity Jane. Born Martha Canary in 1856 and orphaned 9 years later, Calamity Jane survived by any means possible, meaning she followed railroad, military, and gold camps across Wyoming Territory.  She was on the Newton-Jenny Expedition in 1875 and General Crook’s expedition of 1876.  Calamity Jane would dress in soldier’s uniforms to avoid detection.  She joined the Wagon Train that included Wild Bill and Charlie Utter in Fort Laramie, WY.  Jane was loud, profane, and often drunk – she was also widely known.  She worked hard to fit into a man’s world, and made her living in a variety of ways by cooking, cleaning, waitressing, dance hall girl, and as a prostitute, but she had a soft side – she tended to the sick (smallpox epidemic).
She was not romantically involved with Wild Bill as legend has it. She was in and out of Deadwood many times, was married several times, and was a mother to a daughter and a son.  She came back to the Black Hills in 1903, but she was in tough shape from her hard-living lifestyle.  She died on August 1, 1903, in Terry, about 7 miles south of Deadwood. Deadwood businessmen wasted no time going to get her body and burying her next to Wild Bill Hickok.  She was 47 years old.

We spent our time here, armed with a walking tour map and our cameras. What fun.

Cheesy photo ops galore!




Our in town tour ended this amazing building. Its history is interesting. The Round Table Club and the Deadwood Women’s Club organized Deadwood’s first public library. In 1903, these women's groups facilitated negotiations between the Deadwood City Commission and philanthropist Andrew Carnegie for funds to build a library. On November 8, 1905, the library was officially dedicated in front of a large crowd of spectators. Deadwood Mayor Edward McDonald delivered a speech on the importance of a public library and its benefit to the community as it still is today, 121 years later.
We ended our visit to Deadwood as so many others before us, at the cemetery. It was said of this area, by George V. Ayres, Deadwood businessman and longtime resident, “The climate in the Black Hills is so damn healthy that you would have to kill a man to start a cemetery." Situated on a mountainous plateau overlooking Deadwood Gulch is historic Mount Moriah Cemetery.  Established in 1878 by the Lawrence County Commission, Mount Moriah is the final resting place of western legends, murderers, madams, and pillars of Deadwood’s early economic development.


Someone new to us was Dora Du Fran, a well known "Sporting House" proprietor in the wild, early days of the town of Deadwood. She was beloved by the miners and any down-on-their-luck men in the area. She frequently gave financial help to many. Her most unusual claim to fame was befriending the destitute and alcoholic "Calamity Jane" during her hard times. She employed her as a maid in the Deadwood Brothel which she ran. Dora also had brothels in Lead, Rapid City, and Belle Fourche South Dakota as well. After living in the Black Hills area for about sixty years, Dora passed away and was buried in Mount Moriah Cemetery along with her pet parrot, Fred. She lies next to her husband Joseph, about whom little is known.
We concluded our day in Custer, the oldest town established by European Americans in the Black Hills. Gold was discovered east of Custer during the Black Hills Expedition, conducted by the 7th Cavalry led by Lt. Colonel George Armstrong Custer, a discovery which initiated the Black Hills Gold Rush.

Almost abandoned in 1876, after word of the much larger gold strikes in Deadwood Gulch spread, Custer later became an established city and our home for the night.
A brief visit to the 1881 Court House Museum shared more of the town's history.




I loved the painted buffalo statues throughout town. The Custer Stampede Buffalo Art project, featuring unique, life-sized fiberglass sculptures are displayed throughout downtown and fun to discover. These were two of my favorites.

We strolled the historic streets until we worked up an appetite.



Dinner was al fresco at a delightful Mexican bistro. Yum.
We ended our day for the final Custer Area Arts Council's "Music in Harbach Park" summer concert series. Our timing was perfect.
The talent was Jonathan Jacky, a freelance musician, producer, and composer based in the sacred Black Hills of South Dakota and Wyoming. Talent is an apt title. He boasts a versatile background as a classically trained trumpeter and guitarist. His original live looping music is like nothing we have ever seen before. We were so impressed.



This was the guard to our campground. What a fantastic day in South Dakota.

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