Day in Deadwood/Night in Custer
From movies watched and stories read, Deadwood has always had an allure.It was here, 152 years ago, that the discovery of gold in the southern Black Hills set off one of the great gold rushes in America. In 1876, miners moved into the northern Black Hills. That’s where they came across a gulch full of dead trees and a creek full of gold and Deadwood was born.
Poor Calamity Jane. Born Martha Canary in 1856 and orphaned 9 years later, Calamity Jane survived by any means possible, meaning she followed railroad, military, and gold camps across Wyoming Territory. She was on the Newton-Jenny Expedition in 1875 and General Crook’s expedition of 1876. Calamity Jane would dress in soldier’s uniforms to avoid detection. She joined the Wagon Train that included Wild Bill and Charlie Utter in Fort Laramie, WY. Jane was loud, profane, and often drunk – she was also widely known. She worked hard to fit into a man’s world, and made her living in a variety of ways by cooking, cleaning, waitressing, dance hall girl, and as a prostitute, but she had a soft side – she tended to the sick (smallpox epidemic).
She was not romantically involved with Wild Bill as legend has it. She was in and out of Deadwood many times, was married several times, and was a mother to a daughter and a son. She came back to the Black Hills in 1903, but she was in tough shape from her hard-living lifestyle. She died on August 1, 1903, in Terry, about 7 miles south of Deadwood. Deadwood businessmen wasted no time going to get her body and burying her next to Wild Bill Hickok. She was 47 years old.
We spent our time here, armed with a walking tour map and our cameras. What fun.
Our in town tour ended this amazing building. Its history is interesting. The Round Table Club and the Deadwood Women’s Club organized Deadwood’s first public library. In 1903, these women's groups facilitated negotiations between the Deadwood City Commission and philanthropist Andrew Carnegie for funds to build a library. On November 8, 1905, the library was officially dedicated in front of a large crowd of spectators. Deadwood Mayor Edward McDonald delivered a speech on the importance of a public library and its benefit to the community as it still is today, 121 years later.
We ended our visit to Deadwood as so many others before us, at the cemetery. It was said of this area, by George V. Ayres, Deadwood businessman and longtime resident, “The climate in the Black Hills is so damn healthy that you would have to kill a man to start a cemetery." Situated on a mountainous plateau overlooking Deadwood Gulch is historic Mount Moriah Cemetery. Established in 1878 by the Lawrence County Commission, Mount Moriah is the final resting place of western legends, murderers, madams, and pillars of Deadwood’s early economic development.
Someone new to us was Dora Du Fran, a well known "Sporting House" proprietor in the wild, early days of the town of Deadwood. She was beloved by the miners and any down-on-their-luck men in the area. She frequently gave financial help to many. Her most unusual claim to fame was befriending the destitute and alcoholic "Calamity Jane" during her hard times. She employed her as a maid in the Deadwood Brothel which she ran. Dora also had brothels in Lead, Rapid City, and Belle Fourche South Dakota as well. After living in the Black Hills area for about sixty years, Dora passed away and was buried in Mount Moriah Cemetery along with her pet parrot, Fred. She lies next to her husband Joseph, about whom little is known.
We concluded our day in Custer, the oldest town established by European Americans in the Black Hills. Gold was discovered east of Custer during the Black Hills Expedition, conducted by the 7th Cavalry led by Lt. Colonel George Armstrong Custer, a discovery which initiated the Black Hills Gold Rush.Almost abandoned in 1876, after word of the much larger gold strikes in Deadwood Gulch spread, Custer later became an established city and our home for the night.
A brief visit to the 1881 Court House Museum shared more of the town's history.
I loved the painted buffalo statues throughout town. The Custer Stampede Buffalo Art project, featuring unique, life-sized fiberglass sculptures are displayed throughout downtown and fun to discover. These were two of my favorites.
We strolled the historic streets until we worked up an appetite.
Dinner was al fresco at a delightful Mexican bistro. Yum.
We ended our day for the final Custer Area Arts Council's "Music in Harbach Park" summer concert series. Our timing was perfect.
The talent was Jonathan Jacky, a freelance musician, producer, and composer based in the sacred Black Hills of South Dakota and Wyoming. Talent is an apt title. He boasts a versatile background as a classically trained trumpeter and guitarist. His original live looping music is like nothing we have ever seen before. We were so impressed.
This was the guard to our campground. What a fantastic day in South Dakota.
A brief visit to the 1881 Court House Museum shared more of the town's history.
I loved the painted buffalo statues throughout town. The Custer Stampede Buffalo Art project, featuring unique, life-sized fiberglass sculptures are displayed throughout downtown and fun to discover. These were two of my favorites.
We strolled the historic streets until we worked up an appetite.
Dinner was al fresco at a delightful Mexican bistro. Yum.
We ended our day for the final Custer Area Arts Council's "Music in Harbach Park" summer concert series. Our timing was perfect.
The talent was Jonathan Jacky, a freelance musician, producer, and composer based in the sacred Black Hills of South Dakota and Wyoming. Talent is an apt title. He boasts a versatile background as a classically trained trumpeter and guitarist. His original live looping music is like nothing we have ever seen before. We were so impressed.
This was the guard to our campground. What a fantastic day in South Dakota.

































































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