Our final UK day was spent in Saffron Walden a picturesque, medieval town, with a rich heritage of old buildings reflecting its wealth as a rural market town. What an ideal choice by our exceptional tour guides!
Coffee was at The Eight Bells, a delightful historic inn.
This was as storybook as a village could be.
This building, the Old Sun Inn is one of Saffron Walden's greatest treasures and is currently awaiting restoration. This captivating, and much-cherished Grade I-listed historic building, displays some of the best pargeting – external decorative plasterwork – in England. Originally medieval houses, then later an inn, the property has subsequently been in mixed commercial and domestic use for hundreds of years.The Inn is timber-framed with 14th-century origins and overhanging or ‘jettied’ upper floors. The renowned pargeting dates from the 17th century onwards.What's pargeting you might ask. Pargeting is believed to have been introduced to England in the 16th century by Henry VIII, who imported Italian plasterers to decorate Nonsuch Palace. The craft was referred to as ‘stucco’ in Italy, but became known as ‘pargeting’ in England.Initially, patterns were stamped or scratched into the surface of wet plaster, but the most skilled pargeters came to create their own designs which they then modelled directly onto the wall using their fingers and spatula to create designs in high relief. Pargeting can be found in a number of finishes and is not restricted to lime plaster, although this is the most common. Repeat decorative patterns were often made with wooden home-made stamps. The finest pargeting is hand-modelled bas-relief motifs like coats of arms, fruits, animals and green men etc.
Pargeting is most frequently seen on the outside of houses, particularly in areas where there is no good building stone. It is most commonly found on timber-framed properties which are more prone to fire damage than brick or stone built ones, although it was not necessarily a substitute. This technique dropped out of fashion after Elizabeth’s I’s reign, became popular again during the Jacobite period, Victorian era, Arts and Crafts period, and has become very popular again in the last 20 to 30 years.
Of course we had to visit Saffron Walden's spectacular church.St Mary The Virgin, the largest and one of the most beautiful parish churches in Essex. The building as it currently stands dates predominantly from a rebuilding between 1250 and 1258, with a further rebuilding in the Perpendicular style begun in about 1450, the latter stages supervised by John Wastell, the master mason who was building King's College Chapel in the nearby city of Cambridge.
This was the first church in which I discovered a historic example of the opportunity to do brass rubbings. During the Civil War (1642-51) and, later, in the restoration of the church carried out in the 1790s, many of the memorial brasses were destroyed or removed from the church. Some few were taken away for safekeeping, however, and were returned to the church in 1901 by the then Lord Braybrooke.The oldest brass is the first one on the left. This dates to around 1430, thus pre-dating the present building and, it is believed, has actually been in its present position ever since, escaping the depredations referred to above. It represents a priest - believed to be John Byrd, who died c. 1394 in Eucharistic vestments of amice, alb, chasuble, stole and maniple. Above the head of the figure is a representation of 'the Pelican in her Piety' surmounted by a scroll with the words 'Sic Christus dilexit nos' ('So Christ loved us').%20(Medium).jpg)
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I just had to pop into the public library. What a wonderful repurposed building. The Saffron Walden Corn Exchange, designed in the Italianate style and completed in 1849, was a significant feature of the town's agricultural history. Built on the site of a former guildhall, the building housed a central open area for corn merchants and included a committee room, public reading room, and offices. While initially a bustling marketplace, its use declined after the Great Depression of British Agriculture in the late 19th century.The market, while not quite bustling, was a lovely spot to pick up the evening's vegetables and mingle with the locals.
If I had more time and more room in my suitcase, this Fabric Vendor and I would have had a productive exchange! Wow.
Something that would have gone unnoticed had I not popped into the Visitor's Center and gathered information was this drinking fountain in Market Square. This wonderful, and purposeful statue commemorates the marriage of Queen Victoria’s son Prince Edward to Princess Alexandra of Denmark in 1863. It was a gift to the town from George Gibson, the town’s Mayor.George Gibson and his family, who were Quakers, also gave the town the Town Hall, the Barclays Bank building, the Friends’ School, additions to the almshouses, and the Hospital (now the offices of Uttlesford District Council). The fountain provided a much needed centerpiece for the market square and, indeed, the whole town of Saffron Walden. Gibson purchased it at the Imperial Exhibition in London. The fountain features four scenes from the book of Exodus in the Bible. These scenes show Moses liberating the children of Israel from slavery in Egypt.A delightful creative explore was had at the Fry Art Gallery which displays a unique collection of paintings, prints, books and ceramics showing the artistic heritage of north west Essex, featuring Edward Bawden, Eric Ravilious, Michael Rothenstein, John Aldridge, Michael Ayrton, Grayson Perry, and others who have made a significant contribution to British Art.Our time in Saffron Walden concluded with a stroll through the exceptional Bridge End Garden. This amazing space was created around 1840 by Francis Gibson, a local Quaker businessman who also built the Fry Art Gallery. Francis' daughter Elizabeth married Lewis Fry of Bristol and in 1918 the Fry family leased the Garden to the local council. It has been open to the public ever since.As this was our last day here, Ian offered me an opportunity which was probably the best way to end this fabulous British adventure... beekeeping.Ian began keeping bees four years ago and has become quite the expert and a willing tutor to all things involved in being an apiarist. What a pinch me moment!“One can no more approach people without love
than one can approach bees without care.
Such is the quality of bees...”
(and old friends)
― Leo Tolstoy
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