Day in Deadwood/Night in Custer

From movies watched and stories read, Deadwood has always had an allure.

It was here, 152 years ago, that the discovery of gold in the southern Black Hills set off one of the great gold rushes in America. In 1876, miners moved into the northern Black Hills. That’s where they came across a gulch full of dead trees and a creek full of gold and Deadwood was born.
Practically overnight, the tiny gold camp boomed into a town that played by its own rules that attracted outlaws, gamblers and gunslingers along with the gold seekers. Wild Bill Hickok was one of those men who came looking for fortune.
Wild Bill is probably the most famous Deadwood resident, even though he was only in town a few short weeks.  James Butler Hickok arrived in Deadwood, along with Colorado Charlie Utter and Calamity Jane, in July of 1876.  He was a well-known gambler and gunslinger, participating in many shootouts before coming to Deadwood. He was killed on August 2, 1876 when Jack McCall shot him from behind while playing poker. When he died, Wild Bill was holding a pair of aces and eights, that series of cards became known to poker players all around the world as the “Dead Man’s Hand."

Poor Calamity Jane. Born Martha Canary in 1856 and orphaned 9 years later, Calamity Jane survived by any means possible, meaning she followed railroad, military, and gold camps across Wyoming Territory.  She was on the Newton-Jenny Expedition in 1875 and General Crook’s expedition of 1876.  Calamity Jane would dress in soldier’s uniforms to avoid detection.  She joined the Wagon Train that included Wild Bill and Charlie Utter in Fort Laramie, WY.  Jane was loud, profane, and often drunk – she was also widely known.  She worked hard to fit into a man’s world, and made her living in a variety of ways by cooking, cleaning, waitressing, dance hall girl, and as a prostitute, but she had a soft side – she tended to the sick (smallpox epidemic).
She was not romantically involved with Wild Bill as legend has it. She was in and out of Deadwood many times, was married several times, and was a mother to a daughter and a son.  She came back to the Black Hills in 1903, but she was in tough shape from her hard-living lifestyle.  She died on August 1, 1903, in Terry, about 7 miles south of Deadwood. Deadwood businessmen wasted no time going to get her body and burying her next to Wild Bill Hickok.  She was 47 years old.

We spent our time here, armed with a walking tour map and our cameras. What fun.

Cheesy photo ops galore!




Our in town tour ended this amazing building. Its history is interesting. The Round Table Club and the Deadwood Women’s Club organized Deadwood’s first public library. In 1903, these women's groups facilitated negotiations between the Deadwood City Commission and philanthropist Andrew Carnegie for funds to build a library. On November 8, 1905, the library was officially dedicated in front of a large crowd of spectators. Deadwood Mayor Edward McDonald delivered a speech on the importance of a public library and its benefit to the community as it still is today, 121 years later.
We ended our visit to Deadwood as so many others before us, at the cemetery. It was said of this area, by George V. Ayres, Deadwood businessman and longtime resident, “The climate in the Black Hills is so damn healthy that you would have to kill a man to start a cemetery." Situated on a mountainous plateau overlooking Deadwood Gulch is historic Mount Moriah Cemetery.  Established in 1878 by the Lawrence County Commission, Mount Moriah is the final resting place of western legends, murderers, madams, and pillars of Deadwood’s early economic development.


Someone new to us was Dora Du Fran, a well known "Sporting House" proprietor in the wild, early days of the town of Deadwood. She was beloved by the miners and any down-on-their-luck men in the area. She frequently gave financial help to many. Her most unusual claim to fame was befriending the destitute and alcoholic "Calamity Jane" during her hard times. She employed her as a maid in the Deadwood Brothel which she ran. Dora also had brothels in Lead, Rapid City, and Belle Fourche South Dakota as well. After living in the Black Hills area for about sixty years, Dora passed away and was buried in Mount Moriah Cemetery along with her pet parrot, Fred. She lies next to her husband Joseph, about whom little is known.
We concluded our day in Custer, the oldest town established by European Americans in the Black Hills. Gold was discovered east of Custer during the Black Hills Expedition, conducted by the 7th Cavalry led by Lt. Colonel George Armstrong Custer, a discovery which initiated the Black Hills Gold Rush.

Almost abandoned in 1876, after word of the much larger gold strikes in Deadwood Gulch spread, Custer later became an established city and our home for the night.
A brief visit to the 1881 Court House Museum shared more of the town's history.




I loved the painted buffalo statues throughout town. The Custer Stampede Buffalo Art project, featuring unique, life-sized fiberglass sculptures are displayed throughout downtown and fun to discover. These were two of my favorites.

We strolled the historic streets until we worked up an appetite.



Dinner was al fresco at a delightful Mexican bistro. Yum.
We ended our day for the final Custer Area Arts Council's "Music in Harbach Park" summer concert series. Our timing was perfect.
The talent was Jonathan Jacky, a freelance musician, producer, and composer based in the sacred Black Hills of South Dakota and Wyoming. Talent is an apt title. He boasts a versatile background as a classically trained trumpeter and guitarist. His original live looping music is like nothing we have ever seen before. We were so impressed.



This was the guard to our campground. What a fantastic day in South Dakota.

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Devils Tower and a Fish Hatchery

After spending our morning at the local laundromat, we left Gillette, WY with our destination being our Nation's first National Monument, Devils Tower.

Devils Tower (also known as Matȟó Thípila or Bear Lodge) is a laccolithic butte, composed of igneous rock in northeastern Wyoming. It rises 1,267 feet above the Belle Fourche River, standing 867 ft from summit to base. The summit is 5,112 ft above sea level. When you come around the corner and see it, it's pretty breathtaking.
Devils Tower National Monument was the first United States national monument, established on September 24, 1906, by President Theodore Roosevelt (I'll be talking more about him in a few days).

This 'selfie stand' was a first. While I carry a tripod everywhere I go, this was such a great idea we had to try it out.
The stand works great at capturing the Tower and us.


Do you see the people in the cracks? As of 1994, climbing Devils Tower had increased in popularity. About 1.3% of the monument's 400,000 annual visitors climbed Devils Tower, mostly using traditional climbing techniques. The first known ascent, by any method, occurred on July 4, 1893, and is credited to William Rogers and Willard Ripley, local ranchers in the area. They completed this first ascent after constructing a ladder of wooden pegs driven into cracks in the rock face.
At the base of Devils Tower, colorful cloth bundles and ribbons tied to tree branches are sacred prayer offerings left by Indigenous people who regard the site as a deep spiritual sanctuary.
Believers tie these cloths to trees so that the wind carries their prayers upward into the spiritual realm.
To a person of a certain age, this tower might look familiar. The 1977 movie Close Encounters of the Third Kind used the formation as a plot element and as the location of its climactic scenes. The film's popularity resulted in a large increase in visitors to the monument and climbers of it. It makes me want to watch the movie again.
Our last stop before leaving the Park was at Prairie Dog Town. Located near the Belle Fourche River, this town spans 40 acres and is home to over 600 residents. Prairie dogs are not only cute, they are also a keystone species vital to the park’s ecosystem. I could have watch them all day but we were off to Spearfish, South Dakota for the night.


After dinner and explore of its historic downtown, we settled into our home for the night, Spearfish City Campground.
I had just mentioned to Steve that I wanted for visit a fish hatchery. How fun that one was right next to our campground. Established in 1896, D.C. Booth Historic National Fish Hatchery and Archives, formerly Spearfish National Fish Hatchery, is one of the oldest operating hatcheries in the country dedicated to fish culture and resource management.
And why the need for such a place? In the late 1860s, it was clear that fishers were wiping out salmon and American shad on the East Coast. The feds had to do something. Congress, with what in retrospect seems a strange confidence, charged the new Commission of Fish and Fisheries with the task of “supplementing declining native stocks of coastal and lake food fish through fish propagation."
The need for fish became very important. During World War I, governments launched "Eat More Fish" campaigns to conserve beef, pork, and lamb for troops fighting on the front lines. Agencies like the U.S. Food Administration and the U.S. Bureau of Fisheries urged citizens to replace meat with wild-caught seafood, reminding the public that fish “feed themselves” and save products of the land. At the time, meat indicated wealth while fish was often viewed as low-status (déclassé). Advocate Evelene Spencer traveled across the United States to teach citizens how to prepare and cook alternative seafood options like carp, bass, and trout.



This train car piqued my curiosity. Before the invention of refrigerated tanker trucks, fish hatcheries were faced with the problem of how to quickly move fish from hatcheries to lakes and rivers around the country. Voilà a train car. During the Fish Car Era, 66-year period that played a key role in fisheries propagation, ten specifically designed railcars were constructed; and by 1920, fish cars had carried over 72 billion fish across 2 million miles of railroad track. D.C. Booth displays the only federal fisheries railcar exhibit in the country, showcasing a replica of Fish Car No. 3.




The D.C. Booth Historic National Fish Hatchery is vital because it is a pioneer in western trout management, preserves the nation's largest collection of fisheries history, and actively stocks fish for regional tribal and military waters. The hatchery continues to raise thousands of catchable trout each year. Stocking tribal waters provides recreational fishing opportunities, but also food and a boost in economically depressed areas. How cool is that?!
Speaking of cool, this was our home for the night. All is groovy!

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