A National Fort, Road & Canal...

Fort Necessity National Battlefield marks the site of the opening battle of the French & Indian War in 1754. This clash between British, French, and American Indian forces ended French power in North America and set the stage for the American Revolution. It was also the site of young George Washington's first military engagement and also Washington's only surrender. We had no idea.

The history of how it all came to be was an interesting one. There had been a lot of  build-up to the conflict. Great Britain and France both claimed the Ohio River Valley.
In May 1754, a 22-year-old Lieutenant Colonel George Washington led a surprise attack on a French scouting party, with one of his allies controversially killing the commander, Joseph Coulon de Jumonville.




Fearing French retaliation, Washington and his men hastily built a small, circular wooden stockade in a low-lying meadow known as the Great Meadows (which Washington purchased couple of decades later).
A little more background history that I found incredible- The Battle occurred on July 3, 1754 when about 600 French soldiers and their Native American allies attacked the roughly 400 British regulars and Virginia militia stationed at the fort. Poor Positioning, the fort was built in a depression, made it a poor defensive position that allowed the French to fire safely from the surrounding tree line while the British trenches flooded in heavy rain. With soaked gunpowder, dwindling supplies, and mounting casualties, Washington agreed to surrender by midnight. Washington signed a capitulation paper written entirely in French that inadvertently translated his actions at Jumonville Glen as an "assassination". And yet, he still became President. Who knew?!

This local skirmish had a global impact. It helped ignite the French and Indian War, which expanded into the worldwide Seven Years' War and ultimately reshaped colonial power in North America. The French and Indian War would lead to the first global war and set the stage for the American Revolution.
Our next history lesson involves George Washington, too. We got off the super highway and traveled Alt 40... The National Road. This was the first highway built entirely with federal funds. The road was authorized by Congress in 1806 during the Jefferson Administration. Construction began in Cumberland, Maryland in 1811. The route closely paralleled the military road suggested by George Washington and opened by him and General Braddock in 1754-55.
By 1818 the road had been completed to the Ohio River at Wheeling, which was then in Virginia. Eventually the road was pushed through central Ohio and Indiana reaching Vandalia, Illinois in the 1830s where construction ceased due to a lack of funds. The National Road opened the Ohio River Valley and the Midwest for settlement and commerce.

This new road saw thousands of travelers heading west over the Allegheny Mountains to settle the rich land of the Ohio River Valley. Small towns along the National Road's path began to grow and prosper with the increase in population. Many of these small towns and villages along the road contained taverns, blacksmith shops, and livery stables. Taverns were probably the most important and numerous businesses found on the National Road. It is estimated there was about one tavern every mile. All taverns offered three basic things: food, drink, and, lodging.
When the National Road first opened, financing was provided by the government. Overtime, that funding stopped and it was up to the states to keep up their stretch. Maryland's answer was LaVale Toll Gate House, the first (and last standing) toll house on America's first federal road .
The gate arm holders still stand.

History lessons were learned at Cumberland, Maryland, important because it served as the historic "Gateway to the West" and a vital 19th-century transportation hub that fueled America's early westward expansion and industrial growth.
It was the eastern starting point of the National Road (established in 1806) which carried settlers into the Ohio Country.

It was also the site of Fort Cumberland, George Washington’s first military headquarters during the French and Indian War.
During the 1800s, Cumberland united the C&O Canal, the B&O Railroad, and the National Road, making it Maryland's second-largest city and earning it the nickname the "Queen City".
The Chesapeake and Ohio (C&O) Canal was started in 1828 as a dream of passage to Western wealth. Operating for nearly 100 years, the canal was a lifeline for communities along the Potomac River as coal, lumber, and agricultural products floated down the waterway to market. After closing due to competition from the railroads and the destruction of floods, the area languished in disrepair until it became a target for a parkway in the 1950s. Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas rallied support for developing the canal as a linear park, and in 1971, it became a National Historical Park.
Three unique parts of American history were learned within just one state- Maryland. How very, very cool.

And what fun to find David J. Lewis' home. In 1912, Congressman Lewis proposed a law which later became the system under which the parcel post was organized by the Department of the Post Office. I do love mail and any history related to it.
Tomorrow is one more history lesson in Maryland. I really had no idea. Wow.

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Frank Lloyd Wright's KENTUCK KNOB

My PA pen pal Kim told me about Kentuck Knob, a delightfully surprising masterpiece by Frank Lloyd Wright, three years ago after I first went to Fallingwater. I can't believe Steve and I finally made it here.

At 2,050 feet above sea level, Kentuck Knob (1956) sits just below the mountain’s crest, appearing as a natural extension of the hill itself. Expanses of glass and cantilevered overhangs effortlessly blur the line between interior and landscape. A Grand Usonian home designed on a hexagonal module, it represents Frank Lloyd Wright’s philosophy of organic architecture adapted for the modern world. Usonian is a mid-20th-century architectural style and design philosophy created by Mr. Wright to provide affordable, efficient housing for the middle class. He used the term "Usonia" as an abbreviation for the "United States of North America," believing it better represented a unique, democratic American identity than the word "America".
Kentuck Knob is a striking expression of Wright's Usonian vision — built from native sandstone and North Carolina red cypress, it feels at one with its surroundings. The home features built-in furniture, indirect lighting, and semi-enclosed spaces, all anchored by a central kitchen with two wings rising to meet the copper roofline. Just beyond the back patio, sweeping views of the Youghiogheny River Gorge and the Laurel Highlands complete the setting.
This was fun to see. Frank Lloyd Wright began adding his physical ceramic red square signature tiles to buildings in 1951. He first used the red square motif as a personal graphic symbol and signature on his drawings and stationery starting in 1894. In 1950, he commissioned ceramicist Jeanette Pauson Haber to fabricate the actual ceramic tiles inscribed with his "FLLW" initials. The physical tiles were intended to be placed only on completed buildings where the construction strictly adhered to his design specifications. Only about 50 to 75 tiles were ever made and distributed to select projects and favored clients, making them quite rare.
Isaac Newton Hagan (commonly called I.N.) and Bernardine Hagan approached Wright once they had seen Edgar and Liliane Kaufmann’s home, Fallingwater, seven miles away. After falling in love with their friends’ home, the Hagan’s knew they wanted Frank Lloyd Wright to design their own mountain backdrop dream home. Wright at this time was eighty-six years old and was working on several projects including the Guggenheim Museum in Manhattan’s Upper East Side and the Price Tower in Bartlesville, Oklahoma. However, Wright agreed to design the house for the Hagans.
The most amazing aspect is that Wright never saw the land before he and his partners ketched ideas for Kentuck Knob. In fact, Wright only intended to visit Pennsylvania once to inspect the building site, and would “rely instead on a topographical survey and a series of photographs.” I.N. and Bernardine were greatly disappointed when they learned Wright would not be coming regularly to visit the progress that the house had been making during the design phase or construction. Wright had Mr. and Mrs. Hagan visit some of the houses he had designed in Wisconsin to get ideas of what they wanted for Kentuck Knob. My gosh, the man was 86! What could they expect?

A great believer in the intrinsic beauty of natural materials, Wright combines the native fieldstone with tidewater red cypress to create a chorus of color and texture that replicates the surrounding landscape. The design of this product was adapted from the perforated boards in the house which infuse the house with individuality, allow in light, and create interesting shadows and light patterns in the interior of the house which change as the sun moves across the sky without the expense of art glass.
In the Hagan-era, this postcard was made. The chairs are focused on an "invisible window" crafted for Bernardine. This features a massive 8-foot by 4-foot sheet of polished plate glass mitered seamlessly and directly into the corner stone masonry and wood ceiling. Because there is no visible wood or metal frame, it functions as a literal transparent screen, blurring the distinction between the interior greatroom and the outdoor Appalachian forest. In real life it was beautiful.
Wright usually designed furniture to blend with the architecture, rather than for comfort. This arrangement seems to have fit both criteria. Kentuck Knob has some of the most outstanding architecture and also some of the most difficult to build. The whole house only has two 90 degree angles, which are constructed in the bathrooms around the showers. Otherwise, the house is made solely of 30, 60, and 120 degree angles. There were several debates and arguments between Wright and the Hagans over furnishings and at what angle the house was going to face. The house was finally complete in the summer of 1956. The Hagans were able to move in to a semi-complete Kentuck Knob on July 29, 1956, their twenty-sixth wedding anniversary. I.N. and Bernardine wrote to Frank Lloyd Wright about a year later thanking him for all of his hard work and sending in their final payment, 10% of the total cost.

The dining area opening to another terrace is one surprise; the view down the corridors toward the master bedroom is another. The kitchen — set behind the big living room fireplace — is a total surprise. It's a six-sided stone-walled room that rises through the height of the house and is lit by a large skylight. This is the massive anchor of the house. It may sound impractical, but outfitted the way Bernadine Hagan wanted it, it was a delight. I loved it.






The Hagans lived happily in their home for 30 years until I.N. Hagan's encroaching Alzheimer's disease forced them in 1986 to move from their isolated mountaintop. The house is now owned by Lord Peter Palumbo of Great Britain. He has preserved it and opened it for the public to see. Some 30,000 visit annually. We're happy to have been there. What a Frank Lloyd Wright experience!
Set within the grounds of Kentuck Knob, more than 30 sculptures and artifacts are displayed around the house and along the nearly mile-long Woodland Walk. Works by artists including Andy Goldsworthy (above and below), Anthony Caro, Wendy Taylor, and more.

We were not expecting to experience a piece of the Berlin Wall. The current owner Lord Palumbo, added segments of the wall to his eclectic collection of contemporary outdoor sculptures on the grounds. Wild.

"Without an architecture of our own we have no soul of our own civilization."
- Frank Lloyd Wright

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Frank Lloyd Wright Pt. 1 and Beyond

Our reason for being in this part of Pennsylvania is mainly Frank Lloyd Wright. Today's visit to Fallingwater was the first of two amazing homes 'our favorite architect' built within a few miles of one another.

Almost three years ago, to the day, I was here with my big brother, Chuck (that thorough blog can be found here). This was Steve's first visit!

For those new to this home, Fallingwater is a world-famous architectural masterpiece designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1935 as a weekend retreat for Edgar J. Kaufmann Sr. and his family. Edgar, Sr. was the very successful owner of Pittsburgh's Kaufmann's Department Store. He and his wife Liliane commissioned the home. Their son, Edgar Kaufmann Jr., had studied under Wright. At the time, Wright wasn't the shining star he once was. Fallingwater was a lifeline for him.


“….there are many places where conversation,
and Frank Lloyd Wright’s work, can be studied;
there is nowhere else where [Fallingwater]
his architecture can felt so warmly, appreciated so intuitively.
That is the beginning of wisdom. . . .”
-Edgar Kaufmann, Jr.

"Step inside one of the 20th century's most iconic spaces to see Wright’s breaking the box design concept, featuring original custom-made furniture, fine art, and a massive stone hearth where a natural boulder pokes right through the floor."

The tour guide really helped us realize the vision, "Notice how glass corners and doors vanish into native sandstone walls, filling the interior with the constant, soothing sound of rushing water."


"Walk out onto the famous concrete balconies that jut dramatically over the waterfall, echoing the horizontal rock ledges of the stream below."

The triumph of Fallingwater rescued Frank Lloyd Wright’s flagging career in his late 60s, re-establishing him as a visionary leader in American architecture. As one marvels at this exceptional masterpiece, one understands why. A visionary leader indeed.
And this is the money shot! Our favorite photo of the day.
After lunch and a change into warmer garb, we headed out into Ohiopyle State Park for a hike along the Fernwood Trail to delight in a different falling water. Strolling on the edge of the Ferncliff Peninsula, we were on the river's edge. Old growth forest of towering hemlocks, white pines, and a variety of giant oaks, along with really interesting fossils, made the hike magical.


"The hike is suitable for all skill levels and follows the path of the Youghiogheny River as it flows in a horseshoe pattern around the peninsula and north towards Pittsburgh."
These 300-million-year-old Carboniferous period plant impressions, embedded in exposed sandstone ledge, were so interesting to discover.

My favorite were the Lepidodendron, known as "scale trees". These grew up to 100 feet tall. Their bark left distinct, diamond-shaped patterns resembling snake skin.




This was a fabulous Pennsylvania day! Tomorrow promises to be more of the same. Woohoo!

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