Last NorCal Stop: Fort Ross & Beyond

Steve and I toured Fort Ross State Historic Park, briefly six years ago as we passed by on the way to somewhere else. This recent explore was way more thorough and quite delightful, plus we had wonderful company (younger son and his family).

Fort Ross State Historic Park brings attention to the varied stories that have occurred here through the centuries, including the long formation of the coastal natural history, the centuries past and present of resident Kashia Pomo people, the Russian colonization periods (1812-1842), the Ranch era (1842-1972), and the over one hundred year era of this area as a protected resource as a State Historic Park (one of California's first).

We began our history lesson in the park's Visitor Center, an excellent place to start a tour of Fort Ross to become acquainted with the rich natural and cultural history of the area. After a 12 minute video, a perusal of the artifacts, and an in-depth reading of the various plaques, we felt ready to explore.

Fort Ross was a thriving Russian-American Company settlement from 1812 to 1841. This commercial company chartered by Russia's tsarist government controlled all Russian exploration, trade and settlement in the North Pacific, and established permanent settlements in Alaska and California. The Fort was the southernmost settlement in the Russian colonization of the North American continent, and was established as an agricultural base to supply Alaska. It was the site of California's first windmills and shipbuilding, and Russian scientists were among the first to record California’s cultural and natural history. Fort Ross was a successfully functioning multi-cultural settlement for some thirty years. Settlers included Russians, Native Alaskans and Californians, and Creoles (individuals of mixed Russian and native ancestry).

The original blockhouses were built prior to 1817. The Spanish were a potential threat to the colony, and the armaments were always ready, but the defensive value of the fort was never tested. The naval cannons in this blockhouse were used to signal and welcome visiting dignitaries.

The Kuskov House was the residence of Ivan Aleksandrovich Kuskov, who founded Ross and was the first administrator. It served as the colonial administrator’s house from before 1817 until 1838.

In the upstairs were living quarters, downstairs an armory. Four of the five Fort Ross managers lived here. Firsthand accounts describe its historic use: “The first room we entered was the armory, containing many muskets, ranged in neat order; hence we passed into the chief room of the house, which is used as a dining room & in which all business is transacted. It was comfortably, though not elegantly furnished, and the walls were adorned with engravings of Nicholas I, Duke Constantine, &…” An anonymous Bostonian’s description, 1832.

Among the later visitors to Ross was the naturalist and artist, Ilya Gavrilovich Voznesenskii. A trained scientist and competent graphic artist, Voznesenskii was sent by the Imperial Academy of Sciences to explore and investigate Russian America. Many important sketches of the Ross Settlement and the surrounding area come from Voznesenskii’s hand, the result of a year-long visit to Northern California. His avid interest in California’s flora and fauna, as well as Native American life, took him far afield by foot, boat and horseback. On these and other expeditions, Voznesenskii was able to gather an ethnographically invaluable collection of California Indian artifacts.

I was enamored with the view and the natural light (the Fort was the first building in California to have glass in its windows).

Steve stands before the Chapel.

According to Russian Orthodox tradition, the cross on the chapel cupola has a short bar on the top representing a sign nailed to the cross: “Jesus of Nazareth-King of the Jews”; the middle bar represents Christ’s crucifixion; the slanted bottom bar, to which Christ’s feet were nailed, points toward heaven (signifying the thief on the right who repented) and downward (signifying the disposition of the mocking thief).

The Chapel was originally built in the mid-1820s. It was the first Russian Orthodox structure in North America outside of Alaska, although Ross had no resident priest. In 1836, Father Ioann Veniaminov visited the settlement and conducted sacraments of marriage, baptisms, and other religious services. Father Veniaminov later became Bishop of Alaska, then Senior Bishop of the Russian Empire. In 1977 he was glorified Saint Innocent by the Russian Orthodox Church. Father Veniaminov had been an active missionary among the Native Alaskan people. Unlike the Spanish, the Russian priests in North America baptized only those natives who demonstrated a knowledge and sincere acceptance of Christian belief.

“The chapel is constructed from wooden boards… It has a small belfry and is rather plain; its entire interior decoration consists of two icons in silver rizas. The chapel at Fort Ross receives almost no income from its members or from those Russians who are occasional visitors.” Journal of Father Ioann Veniaminov, 1836.

Fort Ross had two windmills, both of which were the first windmill west of Mississippi. The first mill was constructed in 1814, not long after the Russians settled the Fort. The second mill was built in 1841. The windmills served two purposes: to grind grain into flour for baking bread for both Settlement Ross and the Russians’ Alaskan settlements, and to power the stamping of local tan bark, used in the hide tanning industry.

I had to hug this tree. It has to be the largest eucalyptus I have ever seen. Not native, selected species were introduced into California because of the Gold Rush of 1849. The influx of a half million people resulted in a shortage of foodstuff and supplies essential for survival and development Schooners were soon plying the waters between domestic and foreign ports for the exchange of goods and services. That trade ostensibly allowed for the exchange of seeds from forest tree species, which eventually accounted for extensive plantations of Monterey pine (Pinus radiata) and for the introduction of eucalyptus species into California, as well as into other parts of the world.

Fort Ross is one of those places where knowledge is gained no matter how often one visits. We will be back.

Interestingly, it was the pelts of the seals that brought many here, in the day. It was delightful to see so many enjoying the sunshine.

After all our exploring, we worked up an appetite. We returned to Bodega Bay where we discovered a new favorite spot to fuel up- Anello Family Restaurant (only open on the weekends and without inside dining). The food and service was excellent. It was the perfect last meal out to conclude our month of rambling about in Northern California.

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HAERR TRIPPIN'

Last NorCal Stop: Fort Ross & Beyond

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