Before leaving home for this travel adventure I read, “If you visit just one monastery in Portugal, make it the Batalha! Do not miss the Unfinished Chapels, it’s an absolute must!” So here we are.
The Monastery of the Dominicans of Batalha (Battle) was built to commemorate the victory of the Portuguese over the Castilians at the battle of Aljubarrota in 1385. It is so sprawling, you see it from quite a distance and boy are you wowed.
Even this web image doesn't capture how totally amazing this structure is.
It was believed by King João I that his prayers to the Virgin Mary helped him win the epic battle (his troops numbering 6,500 vs Spain's 30,000) he seemed sure to lose. He dedicated this grand monastery to her in gratitude.
It took over a century to build, starting in 1386 and ending circa 1517, spanning the reign of seven kings. It took the efforts of fifteen architects and the construction required an enormous effort, using extraordinary resources of men and material. New techniques and artistic styles, hitherto unknown in Portugal, were deployed.
The greater part of the monumental complex dates from the reign of João I (1385-1433).
We wandered in amazement. Truly!
An added surprise was this art exhibit by children. The whimsicalness of the paintings just seemed to add something special.
The most awe-inspiring component were the Capelas Imperfeitas (The Unfinished Chapels). They remain as a testimony of the fact that the monastery was never actually finished. They form a separate octagonal structure tacked on and are only accessible from the outside. It was commissioned in 1437 by King Edward of Portugal ("Dom Duarte", d.1438) as a second royal mausoleum for himself and his descendants. But he and his queen Eleanor of Aragon are the only ones buried here.
The portal rises to a monumental 30 feet. It was originally built in Gothic style, but was transformed beyond recognition by Mateus Fernandes into a masterpiece of Manueline style (completed in 1509). It is completely decorated into a lacework of sumptuous and stylized Manueline motives: spheres, winged angels, ropes, circles, tree stumps, clover-shaped arches, florid projections and even snails. This homage of King Manuel I to his predecessor King Edward mentions his motto Leauté faray tam yaserei (I will always be loyal). This motto is then repeated more than two hundred times in the arches, vaults and pillars.
There is absolutely no way to fully express the magnificence of this structure. Wow. Breathtaking and spectacular.
The Monastery was but one part of our busy explore. I'll post more tomorrow. It's been a long day. Oh, and I just had to share my own found caracois- not food, but so pretty.
posted under |
0 comments:
Post a Comment