Edinburgh Day 1: King Charles, Harry Potter & So Much More

We had two scheduled events canceled for today with no reason given. Needless-to-say, we were pretty excited to learn that the reason was the fact that the King was in town. Thankfully, our itinerary had flexibility to spend our morning awaiting the Royal procession.

We stand before St Giles’ Cathedral, founded in 1124 by King David I. This amazing structure has been a working church for 900 years. A backdrop to Scotland’s turbulent religious history, it has seen the seeds of civil war sown and been John Knox’s parish church during the Reformation. It is still an important center for civic services such as the Kirking of the Parliament and services for Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle.

It turns out that the Queen and Edward, the Duke of Edinburgh, were here to become members of the Order of the Thistle (joined by the King, Prince William and Duchess of Edinburgh) celebrating Scotland's greatest order of chivalry.

And look at us, front row to see it all!

Not everyone was a fan, however. If you watch the video linked below you will hear the chant, "Not my King!"

I was in love with the fashion!

William arrived without Kate, understandably.

Unfortunately we were on the wrong side of the street for this awesome image of the King, but this video shows Queen Camilla look our way and do a wave. Fun stuff.

Our next stop was Greyfriars Kirk. Founded in 1620, it is the first church to be built in post-Reformation Edinburgh. Burials have been taking place in its kirkyard since the late 16th century, and a number of notable Edinburgh residents are interred there.

Turns out every Harry Potter fan knows that the world's most famous wizard was born in Edinburgh. This is where JK Rowling was living while working on the first book of the series - as well as where she would finish the last pages of the final one. Many of the headstones are said to have played into the names for her characters – there is a Moodie (Alastor Moody), Scrymgeour (Rufus Scrimgeour), Cruikshanks (not quite spelled the same as the famous cat), Potters, and McGonagall (Head of Gryffindor, no less). In addition, the entire Kirkyard is rumored to have been the inspiration behind the resting place of Harry’s parents – the eerie and beautiful graveyard in Godric’s Hollow. I will be mentioning Harry Potter a little later, I am not a fan but my older son really was. I just had to clarify that.

We even had the opportunity to witness a cinematic happening. What fun!

Outside of the Kirkyard, stands the Greyfriars Bobby. This Terrier became known in 19th-century Edinburgh for spending 14 years guarding the grave of his owner until he died in 1872. The story continues to be well known in Scotland through several books and films.

The sign by Steve reads, "Site of the Last Public Execution in Edinburgh. The site of the gallows is marked by the three brass plates set at the edge of the pavement in front of this notice. George Bryce, the Ratho Murderer, was executed here on 21st June 1864, the last public execution in Edinburgh." History is EVERYWHERE!

More literary references were found at The Elephant House, now closed due to a fire. This coffee shop is a destination for thousands of Harry Potter fans every year, as well as fans of Ian Rankin and Alexander McCall-Smith, who were well-known patrons. Oh to be a fly on the wall back then!

Museum CONTEXT’s specializes in a curated collection of home interior and unusual gift ideas inspired by a love of period property and quality craftsmanship. They offer immersive shopping experiences in Edinburgh’s historic Old Town and this, their flagship store, is a unique celebration of the fact that Edinburgh is the birthplace of Harry Potter. Located on Victoria Street which is believed to have inspired J.K Rowling to create Diagon Alley. There was a line out the door. Who knew?

At the time, JK was writing, she didn’t have much money so she would hide out in cafes. This was once Nicolson’s, a place which was owned by JK’s brother-in-law. Ordering a coffee now and again, she worked on the groundbreaking first book of her Potter series, Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. She spent a lot of her time here, owing to the family connection as she knew she could stay as long as she liked.

Interesting characters abound!

These iconic red phone boxes are everywhere still. Sadly, most are vandalized. There is one on Edinburgh's Royal Mile being sold for £8000. BUT, whoever buys the box cannot move it from its location due heritage status. Interesting!

I learned a lot about Edinburgh born Walter Scott today, encouraged by this magnificent statue. Sir Walter Scott (1771-1832) was a Scottish novelist, poet, historian, and biographer who is often considered both the inventor and the greatest practitioner of the historical novel. Having been one of the first English-language authors to succeed international in his own lifetime, Scott’s works are still widely read today with many such as Ivanhoe, and Rob Roy being adapted for the screen.

I learned more about the man and two other great Scottish writers The Writers’ Museum. This free museum celebrates the lives of three giants of Scottish Literature – Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson.

Home to portraits, rare books and personal objects including Burns’ writing desk, the printing press on which Scott’s Waverley Novels were first produced, and the rocking horse he used as a child. We have Robert Louis Stevenson’s riding boots and the ring given to him by a Samoan chief, engraved with the name ‘Tusitala’, meaning ‘teller of tales’. There is also a plaster cast of Robert Burns' skull, one of only three ever made. So interesting!

Outside The Writers' Museum is Makars' Court: a peaceful public space with beautifully inscribed flagstones which celebrate Scottish writers from the 14th century up to the present day. How fun to see a Sierra connection with a quote by John Muir.

Throughout town are these wellheads, or cisterns. This one is the oldest of the surviving cisterns, designed by Sir William Bruce, surveyor of the Royal Works, and is the first built by Robert Milne, King's master mason, in/around 1675. The cisterns provided water from springs via the Castlehill reservoir for the inhabitants of the Old Town.

I mentioned Victoria Street when writing about Harry Potter. This picturesque and winding cobblestone lane is one of Edinburgh’s most iconic thoroughfares. Named after Queen Victoria, it exudes a timeless charm that resonates with both locals and visitors. With its colorful facades and unique shops, this street showcases Edinburgh’s architectural diversity and historical legacy.

The circled apartment is our home-away-from home for our 5 nights in Scotland. It's location could not be more ideal. It has allowed us to roam easily and not very far.