Villeneuve Part Deux...

Armed with yet another 24 hour City Pass, we spent our Wednesday across the Rhône delighting in the treasures of Villeneuve-lès-Avignon again.



Coffee and a refueling happened in my new favorite boulangerie... La Magie des Pains.


Our itinerary is very similar to when we were here last with Annie and Bob. We began at Saint-André Fort.









For decades, violent clashes occurred between Protestants and Catholic in the Gard. Not far from Villeneuve lès Avignon, Philippe le Bel watched the Papal kingdom from across the Rhône. In 1292, he decided to make the village a key operational base for the Kingdom of France, building a fortress that controlled access to the Pont d'Avignon bridge.


We were blown away by the history and the wind!
The person who signed the guest book before me drew an accurate portrayal of just how gusty it was. This illustration made me smile.
Next stop was at Saint-André Abbey and its remarkable gardens.
Hortus did not disappoint as an idyllic lunch spot, nestled in the vaults of the abbey.

Actually, the Fort was built to protect the Abbey and the town of Saint- André, the city's birthplace. "Within the fortress is the garden of Saint-André, a designated jardin remarquable (remarkable garden) with a royal, Benedictine Abbey founded in the 10th century, overlooking the Rhône and facing the Papal City. The Tuscan and Mediterranean-style terraced gardens spill out between the ruined remains of Roman churches and tombs from the early Middle Ages, revealing flowerbeds, planted with old rosebushes, ponds and pergolas as well as one-hundred-year-old pine and olive trees. And, around the bend of the path lined with cypress trees."





When else can one wander about in a 7th century cemetery?


As we meandered back to our bus stop was paused to explore the Val de Bénédiction Carthusian Monastery.



During the time of the Avignon Papacy, the city became a vacation destination for the cardinals. In 1356, Pope Innocent VI founded this charterhouse, the largest Carthusian monastery anywhere, featuring a church, three cloisters and forty cells for the monks. In the middle of the 17th century, this monastery was the richest in France. Today, it houses the centre national des écritures du théâtre (National Playwriting Center) which, during the Avignon Festival, enriches this performing arts event by presenting some of the works that have been written within its walls.

Our last stop, which was a first for us, was at the Musée Pierre-de-Luxembourg, housed in a very beautiful 17th century mansion, the former palace of Cardinal Ceccano.

The museum exhibits the artwork, and some furniture, that once adorned the walls of the Val de Bénédiction charterhouse. It presents a panorama of paintings from the 16th to the 18th centuries (Simon de Châlons , Nicolas Mignard, Philippe de Champaigne, Reynaud Levieux).

We were surprised to 'meet' Sainte Casarie via this wonderful painting by Pierre Mignard.
While the Popes played in Avignon, the Cardinals chilled in Villeneuve and had very beautiful artworks to keep them entertained. Wow.
We refreshed at a sidewalk bar before heading home for yet another dinner on our terrace. Life in France is good... La vie est belle!

“So, ask the traveled inhabitant of any nation,
in what country on earth would you rather live?
— Certainly, in my own, where are all my friends, my relations,
and the earliest and sweetest affections
and recollections of my life.
Which would be your second choice? France.”
~ Thomas Jefferson

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1 comments:

Four Points Bulletin said...

You like all that pain? You do know you are what you eat, right? :) Looks like a lovely town!

June 20, 2024 at 7:17 AM

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