A Bus Ride to Villeneuve-lès-Avignon

Today we broke out of our walled city to explore another.



Armed with the 24 Hour Avignon City Pass, we boarded the #5 bus and headed across the Rhône River to discover the treasures found in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.
Our first stop was at Saint-André Fort. The history here is a long one and a symbol of rivalry.
In the10th century, it was made up of a village and the Saint-André Abbey. At the same time, Avignon was being developed on the other bank, thanks to the bridge. But in the 12th century, the kings of France were looking for a way to expand the kingdom with the Rhône being the border (Avignon was a Papal State and not part of France).
The Fort was actually built to protect the Abbey and the city that formed within its walls.




Here's a view of the enemy, the Palace of the Popes and Avignon.


This was a common sight... our paparazzi!










What an incredible, and slightly overwhelming history of life in Provence in the day!
Our second stop was at Saint-André Abbey and its remarkable gardens. But first lunch at Hortus located in the Abbey's 12th century vaults. I don't think we have ever dined anywhere more picturesque.






The Abbey began as a modest hermitage in the 6th century for Saint Casarie. It grew to play a role in international history with its most glorious periods in the 13th and 14th centuries.





What a beautiful, peaceful place to spend an afternoon. I can understand wanting to be a hermit here... Wow.
Our final stop, as a group, was just down the hill at Val de Bénédiction Carthusian Monastery.
La Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction owes its beginnings to Pope Innocent VI. After his election in 1352, the then cardinal donated his lands and a private residence he owned here. Works began quickly on the initial foundations, originally planned for twelve monks, and the monastery was granted numerous privileges. The decoration of its private chapel was entrusted to Matteo Giovannetti, who had painted the frescoes in the Palace of the Popes.
The work begun by Innocent VI was carried on by his nephew, Pierre Selva de Montirac, Cardinal of Pampelona, who finished building the Saint John Cloister in 1372. Over the centuries, the monastery grew richer, more influential and more beautiful. Its three cloisters made it the biggest Carthusian monastery in France.


At the time of the French Revolution, it was divided into lots and sold, its library and works of art were scattered and the monastery was severely damaged. In 1835, the deterioration of the church and its frescoes attracted the attention of the writer Prosper Mérimée, who was then Inspector of Historical Monuments. He immediately started conservation proceedings. In 1909, first restoration work was begun and the decision was taken to buy back, little by little, all the buildings in the original precinct.
"Today, much of the monastery has been restored and visitors enjoy its harmonious proportions, the secluded charm of its cloisters and the shafts of light." Even the prison cell for wayward monks had great lighting.

Poor St. John the Baptist. We have seen many images of his fate.
Pope Innocent VI had close ties with the monastery and, at his request, he was buried there when he died in 1362. His mausoleum, a monument which was removed after the Revolution, was returned to the church in 1959.


As we strolled through Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, I was intrigued by this street artwork.

Our City Pass included a visit to the very famous Pont Saint-Bénézet (Pont d'Avignon).

A wooden bridge spanning the Rhône between Villeneuve-lès-Avignon and Avignon was built between 1177 and 1185. This early bridge was destroyed forty years later in 1226 during the Albigensian Crusade when Louis VIII of France laid siege to Avignon. Beginning in 1234 the bridge was rebuilt with 22 stone arches. The stone bridge was about 980 yd in length and only 16 ft 1 in wide, including the parapets at the sides. It was only made for foot and horse traffic. It seems like a lot of work for such little usage.
The bridge was abandoned in the mid-17th century as the arches tended to collapse each time the Rhône flooded making it very expensive to maintain. Four arches and the gatehouse at the Avignon end of the bridge have survived.
The bridge is so popular there is a very famous children's song about it. Sur Le Pont D'Avignon. This French nursery rhyme dates back to the 15th century and is about a dance performed on the bridge. Needless-to-say, Annie and I danced before we headed home.
Dinner was again on our terrace in the cool Avignon breezes. What a day of exploring, learning, and great company. I think I could get used to this!

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