Arles: Van Gogh & Romans!

As I mentioned when I was here with Annie and Bob, Vincent van Gogh lived in Arles and spent time most of his time at what was once l'Hôtel de Dieu, the city hospital, while recovering from a nervous breakdown that led to him famously cutting off part of his own ear. He often sat in the interior gardens, where he produced one of his most famous paintings, Le Jardin de l'Hôtel de Dieu.

How enthralling to walk in Vincent's footsteps where he found peace.

Van Gogh wrote of Arles, "But if you look at it for a long time, the old charm reveals itself. And that’s why I understand that I’m losing absolutely nothing by staying where I am, and contenting myself with watching things go by, the way a spider in its web waits for flies. I can’t force anything, and as I’m settled now I can take advantage of all the fine days, all the opportunities to catch a real painting from time to time."

The surprising aspect of Arles, beyond that of Van Gogh's powerful presence, is its Roman history. Caesar made Arles a Roman colony in 46 BC and it became the crossroads for trade between Italy, Spain and the Rhône, and consequently a ‘little Rome’. It grew quickly and was adorned with its own amphitheater, a basilica, a circus, triumphal arches and temples. Its baths were as big as those in Rome. Over time much has been dismantled, but there still remains much to see and we did our best in the time we had.

Our first stop was a the Théatre Antique, built in the reign of Augustus. Time was not good to this Roman structure as it was mostly dismantled in the 5th century – it would originally have been grander than the famous Roman theater at Orange. Now only ghostly columns, some seats and the orchestra stand give testimony to its former grandeur.

We ended our day at Les Arènes. While most Roman buildings in Arles were dismantled for their stones, the amphitheater has largely survived. It would originally have been one arcade higher, marble-clad, and with seating for over 20,000 to enjoy the carnage of gladiator fights and other amusements. It is still very impressive with its 60 arches on each level, and today draws the crowds for (bull-friendly) bull-fighting.

Interestingly, from the end of Antiquity, the building became a dwelling place and refuge for the local population. In the Middle Ages, its defenses were reinforced by four towers. The Amphitheater truly became a small town, with an open square in the center and a chapel.

The clearing and restoration of the Roman monuments started in August 1822. This major decision taken by the city council was to remain a main objective for 100 years. This meant the compulsory purchase, and destruction, of the houses built, both inside the amphitheater and those built into its façade.

All around town are site-specific paintings Van Gogh created. In The Arena at Arles (1888), the arena itself is not that evident at first glance, being tucked away in the top corner, what is more striking is the group of milling about figures that crush into the foreground. The whole painting has an atmosphere of jittery activity, and the sketchy figures that are drawn in the middle distance and the background provide a sense of motion. I've seen current photographs of the events that happen here. I think Vincent captured the frenetic energy perfectly.