Arles: Culture & Bonfires

When we were planning our stay in Avignon, I looked to see what might be happening in neighboring towns. When I discovered that Arles was hosting Les Feux de La Saint-Jean, hotel reservations were quickly booked.

The Fires of Saint John occur simultaneously with the summer solstice, which dates back to the dawn of time. In the 5th century, what began as a pagan cult transformed into a Christian event to celebrate the birth of St. John the Baptist. It is a popular festival, in predominately Catholic countries, where everyone comes together in joy and friendship "with the symbols of light, water, and the path of the sun." It also involves a big bonfire which always intrigues me.
After settling our things in our hotel, we found our way to L'Hôtel de Ville to watch the evening's bonfire starter flame arrive. What began as a solar flame in 1955, continues to burn and is kept lit all year round (you have to love traditions). Three days of relay races are necessary to transport the flame from Perpignan to Ventimiglia traversing sixty towns and villages, including Arles, which receives the flame every June 23 around noon. Yes, we were there for it all and even though it was quite foreign to us, it was thrilling.



The flame is then blessed by the Parish priest followed by a reading of the Midsummer message by the Queen of Arles and her Bridesmaids.

The tradition of it all is so powerful.
Elected for three years, the Queen of Arles and the Maidens of Honor are selected after having shown their knowledge of Provençal history, literature, architecture, arts, traditions and language. The Queen then becomes the ambassadress of the traditions of the region of Arles, accompanying local officials at cultural and traditional events. At these events, she always wears the traditional costume. To my right is the exiting Queen, and to my left is this year's crowned successor. So dang cool.
In addition to all the traditions, we found ourselves at an Occitan 'flea market' where items were being offered that were fun to ogle.


To understand more about the culture the town is preserving, we visited the Museon Arlaten. This cultural treasure trove was created by Frédéric Mistral (1830-1914), an Occitan writer and lexicographer of the Provençal form of the language. He received the 1904 Nobel Prize in Literature "in recognition of the fresh originality and true inspiration of his poetic production, which faithfully reflects the natural scenery and native spirit of his people, and, in addition, his significant work as a Provençal philologist". Mistral was a founding member of the Félibrige. How about some definitions.

The Occitans are a Romance-speaking ethnic group originating in the historical region of Occitania (southern France, northeastern Spain, and northwestern Italy and Monaco). They are also called Provençals, which is more familiar to me.
The Occitan language is still used to varying levels by between 100,000 and 800,000 speakers in southern France and northern Italy. Since 2006, the Occitan language is recognized as one of the official languages in Catalonia, an autonomous region of Spain.

The Félibrige is a literary and cultural association founded in 1854 by Mr Mistral and other Provençal writers to defend and promote the Occitan language (also called the langue d'Oc) and literature.
But why was this all necessary? Throughout Europe in the late 1800s, industrialization wrought havoc upon traditional societies and regional cultures. Folklorists feared that customs and beliefs would simply vanish and worked diligently to preserve evidence and to record information. In Provence, it was Mr Mistral who rallied the troops and most of what he gathered is still here, proudly displayed.
"When the Museon Arlaten first opened to the public in the late 1800s, it caused quite a sensation. As early visitors went through the rooms dreamed up by Frédéric Mistral, they discovered an idealized, mythical Provence that reflected folklorists' fascination for a culture they perceived as being preserved from the upheavals of modern times. Scenes from daily life, the trades and activity on the Rhône and the Mediterranean, traditional celebrations and beliefs were all explored and conveyed in startling reconstitutions featuring life-size mannequins (which I loved). The Museon thus celebrated regional culture with innovative displays."


"Folklore collects and compares the immaterial relics of old races, the surviving superstitions and stories, the ideas that are in our time but not of it." -Andrew Lang (1884)



"This gallery displays selected pieces of local history as they were construed in the 19th century. It emphasizes the elements that construct the specificity and the genius of the region, such as Provençal heroes and outstanding ancient and medieval sites in the area. At the Museon Arlaten, these heroes and famous monuments are inextricably linked to Arlesian women in local costume, women of intense beauty considered to be the heiresses of a culture whose roots go back to Greek and Roman times."



Armed with some knowledge and a sense of slight overwhelmedness, we ventured out amongst the welcoming town people. To observe these Occitans showcasing their rich heritage was just what we had hoped it would be.



We were encouraged to write sentiments that would be placed upon the bonfire in order to "let go". What a cathartic activity.

The traditional dancing lasted for 1½ hours. The themes were varied and informative.

This video gives just a brief glimpse of the dancers. The wonderfulness of their culture is expressed. I so thoroughly enjoyed this.

Then at 10 PM, the flame arrived from the Town Hall. The woman in the lower corner is the eldest of all the Occitan women and was honored.
Because the winds had been blowing at 25 MPH the entire day, the big bonfire became a lit faux fire but it still had the desired effect as the Queen and her court danced around it.
We were given a bouquet of regionally grown flowers and herbs and asked to use it to send our dreams aloft when the bonfire was lit. Since there was no true flame, I placed it on the illuminated embers and pretended. What a truly unique experience.

"But like an island among the waves,
Appears the pure profile Of Provence,
like a wealthy island,
Full of dance and songs."
-Frédéric Mistral

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