Today's goal was to just be in the glorious sunshine and explore new locations. We were also heading to the only cemetery in Old Québec as our first destination.
St. Matthew’s Church dates back to the 1870s. It replaced a stone chapel built in 1849 that the many Anglicans living in this part of town had outgrown. The graveyard surrounding it is older still. Opened in 1772, it boasts what is probably the province’s oldest gravestone (Though we didn't find it, the gravestone belonging to Scottish solider Alexander Cameron, who died in Lévis in 1759, and whose body was then transferred to St. Matthew’s graveyard, is thought to be the oldest in all Québec).
The Cimetière Anglican Saint-Matthew is an interesting one. An estimated 6,000 to 10,000 people of the Anglican and Presbyterian faiths were buried in this cemetery between 1772 and 1860. As in most cemeteries from that period, the majority of the deceased were buried in unmarked graves, though there are still 314 tombstones in the cemetery bearing 518 inscriptions.
According to the church burial record, "Robert Wood of the City of Québec, Shopkeeper, and of the House of Assembly, aged Thirty-eight years, died November the sixteenth, and was buried November the nineteenth, in the year of our Lord, one thousand eight hundred and six, by me, Father Joseph Mountain officiating Monsignor at Québec."
"My walk through the cemetery
was an acquaintance with local history."
- Christopher Wren
This tombstone reads, "SACRED to The Memory of SAMUEL CASELY (Native of Plymouth England) Who Died 30th September 1844 Aged 23 Years. Leaving an Aged Mother and many friends in that Country to regret his loss. "My race was short and quickly run, When Jesus called my spirit home; It was a mortal blow hath placed me here, Till Christ shall on the clouds appear. All you who comes my tombe to see, Prepare your self to follow me; Repent in time make no delay, For I in haste was called a way..."
Poor Samuel Pyke Finch (1764-1838). It seems he was buried a little too close to the tree which has enveloped his headstone. Wild.
Interestingly, a large number of churches in Québec are unable to support their religious functions and are awaiting transformation into something else. Last year, 434 churches in the province were en mutation. Those deemed historically significant, like St. Matthew's, have been converted to cultural purposes, mainly concert spaces and libraries. Is this the most beautiful library (since libraries are almost spiritual places for me, this seems fitting)?
Here we met photographer Thaddée Lebel. A photogenic city par excellence, Québec has inspired generations of artists and photographers. Born in this city in 1874, Lebel quickly carved out a solid reputation as an independent photographer. The Secretariat of the Province of Quebec, the Archivist of the Province, the Provincial Exhibition Commission and the City of Quebec called upon his services for the coverage of official events. He also worked freelance for various newspapers and numerous commercial and industrial establishments.
"Thaddée Lebel's photographs have exceptional documentary value. Made between the 1920s and 1940s, they show the streets of Québec, buildings, monuments, schools, workers in factories and on construction sites. Anxious to respond to specific orders, the photographer pays attention to the shots and the contrasts. The technical quality, in particular the fineness of the grain, reveals many details. Lebel takes us through the uncrowded streets, lined with telephone poles, where commercial signs are omnipresent. His work allows you to go back in time and imagine the smells, noises and atmospheres of the city."
The Thaddée Lebel collection includes nearly 1,500 pieces, composed mainly of glass plates and negatives on acetates. It is a wonderful historical window into the City's past. I love it.
Okay, I had to include this photo of a Quebecer, hobbling down the street with one compression sock on, as this has been me most of this trip. I get very strange looks everywhere I go so when this woman and I passed one another, we shared a knowing glance. As for my foot, I have been very pleased with how well it has done. This is a WALKING town and we've had a couple four mile days that made my foot 'talk' to me. I think it's the unevenness of the streets, the tremendous amounts of stairs, and the varying levels of the city that stress my still healing fracture. That said, no complaints. As you can see by all we're doing/seeing/experiencing, I'm getting around.
A must was a visit to the oldest grocery store in North America, a truly one-of-a-kind. Founded in 1871, J.A. Moisan is renowned for its selection of fine food, products made in Québec (preserves and fine cheeses) and foodstuffs from around the world. Old-fashioned décor with music from the 1920s and 1930s makes it a place we plan to return to.
Dinner was at the Crazy Pig. "What is so special about Cochon Dingue? A little bit of Parisian bistro and a Québec joy of life wildly contagious."
I savored the Grilled Tofu Skewer: Soy, lime and ginger marinated tofu, shiitake mushroom and green onions. Served with jasmine rice and sautéed vegetables. Tres bien!
Our night concluded at Cathédrale Holy Trinity, a church which is still very much a church. We were there for Evensong, a sung evening service in the Anglican church, first defined in its current usage during the Reformation (1500s). Occurring the 13th Sunday after Pentecost, our timing couldn't have been better.
The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (1800-04) is the first Anglican cathedral built outside the British Isles. "It gave expression to a royal wish to mark the establishment of the Church of England in Canada. This is why King George III, Head of the Church, donated religious objects (below) and why a special pew was kept for him in the cathedral. This is also why the cathedral was built on a prominent spot in the colony’s capital: its monumental appearance makes it a focal point in Upper Town, and the spire was long the tallest structure in Québec City."
What is Evensong? Evensong is a church service traditionally held near sunset which is focused on singing psalms and other biblical canticles. Tonight's service was sung and chanted by the Right Reverend Bruce Joseph Andrew Myers and his choir. While we didn't really understand all that was being expressed, we enjoyed the ability to rest in such a gorgeous setting while being sung to by (I'm going to say it) Heavenly voices. So very, very interesting.
This short, and somewhat discreet, video offers just a glimpse of the Evensong. It was lovely, truly.
As we were leaving, Reverend Myers asked us, "First timers or big church goers?" He said that those are the only two types of people that sit in the front row. Something about his welcoming and noticing made the night end on an even more special note.
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1 comments:
I am glad you are taking it easy (ish) on your foot. Four miles a day isn't a lot for sightseeing. You must be planning in a small radius. Nice work!
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