Québec: Naval History, Beer, & More

We are firm believers that museums are a perfect way to learn about the history and culture of a place.  Today’s history lesson was learned at Musée Naval de Québec. It is the only one of its kind in the area and is one of the 73 official museums of the Canadian Armed Forces. Located at the Port, it gave us an opportunity to explore even farther. Oh, and like so many things here, it’s free.

The exhibition, Heirs of the Wars, “gives voice to the descendants and relatives of sailors who lived through the Second World War. How did the experience of war change their parents? What objects did they bring back? What were the impacts of this military heritage on their families, once back in their civilian life? From epic naval battles to unexpected friendships, meet those who fought for peace through the testimonies of the people who knew them best.

We learned a great deal about the Royal Canadian Navy’s significant contribution to the success of the Normandy invasion. More than 100 of its ships participated with minesweepers clearing a path across the English Channel for the Allied troops crossing to France. Its guns bombarded the Normandy coast relentlessly to wear down the German defenses, and its landing craft carried load after load of soldiers onto the beach. The Germans were overwhelmed on all fronts. By the end of the war, about 42,000 of Canada's sons and daughters were killed. Many of their stories were told here.

The amount and variety of memorabilia here was exceptional. How about this advertisement? “Men Wanted for the Navy. The Royal Naval Canadian Volunteer Reserve, wants men for immediate service Overseas, in the Imperial Royal Navy. Candidates must be sons of natural born British subjects and be from 18 to 38 years of age. PAY $1.10 per day and upwards. Free Kit. Separation allowance, $20.00 monthly.” FYI: $20 in 1944 is equivalent in purchasing power to about $347.38 today.
I enjoyed ‘meeting’ Germaine Perry, an ambitious woman who broke with social conventions. According to a friend, "I saw her as a bold, independent woman, a forward-thinker who made career choices that were quite unconventional at the time."
When she enlisted in 1943, she specialized in medical radiation and after the war she maintained her involvement with health organizations such as the Red Cross.
Ernest Fecteau’s fate was unfortunate. Born into a military family in Québec City, he was the first Francophone to reach the rank of Chief Ordnance Artificer. He was over forty when the war broke out, and he could have stayed ashore, but he chose to enlist as a Master Gunner 1st Class on the destroyer HMCS Fraser. He died in combat on 25 June 1940, after his ship collided with HMS Calcutta. He was survived by his wife, Alice, and their three children.

The artifact collection was extensive. I was intrigued by this set of Seamanship tools (the art of knot-tying and sail and rope repair). It included a sewing palm, an automatic awl, an assortment of awls, and a new-to-me fid (for splicing two lengths of line by interweaving the strands).


Okay, when we stumbled upon this swimming pool in the Port we were surprised. "Looking for what to do this summer? The Oasis du Port de Québec invites you to live an unforgettable swimming experience in the St. Lawrence River. L'Oasis offers residents and visitors a free swimming area, Olympic-size swimming corridors, relaxation areas and unique facilities to cool off this summer. A gathering and family place, it is also the ideal place to have a drink and eat on one of the most beautiful terraces of Old Quebec while enjoying the magnificent view of the Marina of the Port of Quebec." Wild.
The Era of the American Dream by Jasmin Bilodeau is another of the works of Les Passages Insolites. "It is the outline of a Pioneer house which stands in contrast with the urban landscape. This blurred sculpture creates an illusion of visual vibration. It pays tribute to the vernacular architecture of early settlers and celebrates our humble origins and makes visible just how hazy our collective memory of the past may be."
As we meander, I am drawn to old buildings with new purposes. This elegant façade was one home to a fire station (La Caserne) built in the early years of the last century. Inside, it is the current home of Ex Machina, a powerhouse of innovative theatre.
Hôtel de ville de Québec (City Hall) is the seat of local government (1896) and a gorgeous building right in the middle of town.
There is nothing more to this photo than the fact that I just love those doors!
"Here lived James McKenna (1812-1867). Active member of the Irish community of Québec from 1860 to 1926. This house has sheltered several generations of McKenna."


This charming 19th century building is the Hôtel Le Saint-Paul. I love this architecture.
We returned to Place Royale for a visit to Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Church. Built in 1688, it is considered to be the oldest church, built in stone and with its same walls, in Canada. It is beautiful. We plan to attend services in each of the grand churches while we are here.



We also came back to visit La Maison Smith to have our coffee "in a picture-perfect setting at this café with a patio on the site where Québec was founded. Enjoy the morning calm or watch Place Royale grow more animated as the day goes on. Also recommended are the tasty sandwiches and pastries." Needless-to-say, we are still on hunt for the perfect almond croissant. Challenge accepted!
There are memorial statues all throughout this town. This one is dedicated "To those Sons of Québec who gave their lives in South Africa while fighting for the Empire A.D. 1899-1902." It was one of the only dedications written in English.
This carriage clops down the street below our apartment each day.
We've been asked about the Québécois cuisine. We have not delved into it too deeply but here is a sample of the treats awaiting us when we are more adventurous... Rabbit Wings anyone?

We ended our day at Festibière de Québec.
"This festival is both for beer connoisseurs and newbies, with over 500  beers from about 50 microbreweries available for sampling! Festibière presents brewing industry experts and performances that appeal to everyone, giving you a taste of summer!”


Sadly, the weather has not been conducive to pool time. But how fun would this be if it was?
To participate in this festival, you have to buy this year's mug and jetons (tokens). We were not there to imbibe, only to people watch and experience it. Fun.


I thought this Alcoobar (Breath Alcohol tester) machine, at the manned exit, was an excellent idea. Before leaving, you can determine one of three things: 1. No alcohol detected, 2. You should be careful, 3. You're over the limit (a cab will then be called on your behalf).
On our walk back to our apartment, we were warned of the evils of canned soup (?). Hmm.
Québec becomes even more beautiful when illuminated.
"Le voyage pour moi, ce n’est pas arriver, c’est partir.
C’est l’imprévu de la prochaine escale,
c’est le désir jamais comblé de connaître sans cesse autre chose,
c’est demain, éternellement demain."
– Roland Dorgelès (French novelist)

Translation: For me, travelling is not about arriving.
It’s about leaving. It’s the uncertainty in what’s coming next.
It’s the never-fulfilled desire of discovering something else.
It’s tomorrow, forever tomorrow.

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