La Quinta: A New-To-Us Town

Feeling the desire to explore a new place and armed with a map emailed to me by the La Quinta Historical Society, we headed to an area that was completely new to us- La Quinta.

To begin our history lesson, we went to the location of the Bradshaw Trail (Circa 1862) and Point Happy (more below). To the Cahuilla, the native people of this valley, this point of land was important because it marked access to water. They dug a well into the wash with steps leading down to water level less than 300 yards from this site. That well was the namesake of the city of Indian Wells. Floods destroyed it in 1916.
In 1862, frontiersman William Bradshaw left San Bernardino looking for a route to the Colorado River to search for gold. He, too, made use of the well adjacent to this location. Using well-traveled Indian trails, he found this route to the river. He called it Bradshaw Trail and the Bradshaw Stage line was formed. Because of the well, this area became a major stop. The line ceased to exist in 1877, put out of business by the depletion of gold and the coming of the railroad in 1876.
To learn even more, we visited the Palm Springs Land and Irrigation Company (1935). This building was constructed to be a sales office as the company developed lots in La Quinta Cove, known then as Vale La Quinta. The actual La Quinta Museum is much larger and is located behind this landmark.
This display talks about the Point Happy School. Norman "Happy" Lundbeck homesteaded the property in 1906. His home, a store, and a farm were located on the site that became known as Point Happy (where the Bradshaw Trail began). After his death in 1913, his wife took ownership.
In 1922, the homestead was sold to Chauncey and Marie Clark. They turned it into the Point Happy Date Garden and Ranch. Arabian horses were also bred there. One of them was the mount of silent screen star Rudolph Valentino in the silent movie hit The Sheik. After Mr. Clark died in 1926, Mrs. Clark stayed on and continued to run the ranch. When she passed away in 1948, she left Point Happy to Claremont College. It was subsequently sold to William DuPont Jr., an heir to the DuPont Chemical fortune. He lived there until his death in 1965. The ranch property was sold to developers and the Highland Palms neighborhood was built in 1965. In the 1980s, a shopping center, with La Quinta's first supermarket, was built as well as the spectacular St. Francis of Assisi Catholic Church. Point Happy Estates was built in the early 2000s. As far as we could see, there was no remaining evidence of the once great ranch.
Another great ranch, and one that the museum exhibits proudly, was the Kennedy Brothers Ranch.

The brothers arrived in the desert from Yuma, Arizona in 1947 and built their ranch. There they grew cotton, melons and other produce and raised cattle (and families) on 2,200 acres until 1976. It is now the home of the PGA-West (golf course). 

What an incredible collection of family heirlooms used to tell the story of these two incredible brothers.
The exhibit I was enthralled with was the one on the now gone Desert Club of La Quinta. From its completion in 1937, until its destruction in 1989, the Desert Club was one of the major landmarks in the community.
It all began as a land development project in what was probably the worst business climate imaginable, 1932, the depths of the Great Depression. E. S. “Harry” Kiener, of the Big Bear Land and Water Company, came to the desert and purchased thousands of acres of land adjacent to the famed La Quinta Hotel. His plan was to develop the Cove area to complement his summer hunting and fishing resort in the mountains near Big Bear. Guests or owners of each area would have reciprocal privileges to enjoy the winter months in the warm desert and the summer months in the cool San Bernardino Mountains at the Peter Pan Woodlands Club.
Kiener formed the Palm Springs-La Quinta Development Company and began subdividing the Cove into a grid of small vacation home lots. Between 1935 and 1941, 63 casitas were built. Clients could purchase or rent these small bungalows.
They were Spanish Colonial Revival style with low, red tiled roofs similar to the “casitas” at the La Quinta Hotel (read further on). In 1935, the 50-by-100 lots sold for $195 and the homes for $2500. The homes were completely furnished including linens. They were deliberately spread out to allow enjoyment of the surrounding desert. But more incentive to lure customers for lots and houses was needed. The Desert Club was that lure.
Frank Stone and Edward Glick, top salesmen for Kiener, built the Desert Club between 1934-37.  It was designed by award winning architect S. Charles Lee and opened on Thanksgiving Day of 1937. Unlike the Spanish Colonial Revival style "casitas," the Desert Club was designed to represent the height of 1930s modernism, Art Deco. To many, its rounded corners and second story resembled a river boat in the middle of the desert.
In the early years, the Desert Club attracted such notables as Greer Garson, Irene Dunne, Rhonda Fleming, Virginia Mayo, William DuPont, Jr., Rita Hayworth (left in photo) and Kirk Douglas. Rumor has it that Greta Garbo gambled in the downstairs wine cellar in the 1930s. During 1942, while the Third Army trained nearby, General George S. Patton would often come to the club.
Many Cove children learned to swim in the Club pool. Its shine dulled, however. In the 1970s, Desert Club membership was only $120 per family. The bar and restaurant were open to the public, but there was more and more competition in the valley. The lower membership fee failed to attract the number of clientele to secure financial success, even though building and population in the Cove were exploding. The final blow came in 1989, when the city of La Quinta, believing that it would never have the resources to restore the site, allowed the California Department of Forestry and local volunteers to burn the structure for firefighting practice. What a sad end!
I mentioned the La Quinta Hotel. Its history is best told with images taken while we were there, since it still stands proudly. That said, what intrigued me at the museum was learning that It's a Wonderful Life was written there. For movie director Frank Capra, the hotel was not only an escape from the pressure of making movies, but it became his Shangri-La for script writing. After writing the Academy Award winner It happened One Night, during a stay at the La Quinta Hotel, Capra was convinced it was his lucky place. He returned several times and wrote such hits as Mr. Deeds Goes to Town, Lost Horizon, You Can't Take It With You, and Mr. Smith Goes to Washington. Frank Capra believed La Quinta was his special place that when he retired, he chose to live at the La Quinta Hotel. He loved it so much that he asked for the job of greeting guests just to keep a connection with the people. Mr. Capra lived there until his death in 1991. Wow.
After learning what we could at the museum, we headed to La Quinta Cove to see what remains of what Mr. Kiener had envisioned: small, charming weekend casitas in Spanish Colonial Revival style, spread out for privacy.
Well, not surprising, the housing is very dense, and it was difficult to discern which were the original little houses made of stucco, with clay roof tiles, and decorative ceramic tiles. 
Oh well, it was fun to take the knowledge we had gained and meander about this found treasure.
Our final tour stop was at the La Quinta Hotel. Oh, if the old adobe walls of (the now named) La Quinta Resort & Club could talk. Imagine the amazing stories they would tell. Perhaps an account of what Prohibition was really like, when guests in the spacious Santa Rosa Lounge discreetly mixed the contents of silver flasks with freshly squeezed orange juice, inadvertently creating a cocktail called the Orange Blossom. Or the details of a bawdy joke shared poolside by screen idols Errol Flynn and Clark Cable during the resort’s early Hollywood heydays. Or even a snippet of conversation between famously reclusive Greta Garbo and her on-screen/off-screen leading man, John Gilbert, who often vacationed there together.
La Quinta Resort’s rich history is laden with colorful characters and stories. In the early 1920s, Walter H. Morgan, son of a wealthy San Francisco businessman, purchased 1,400 acres to create what he envisioned as a private, self-contained getaway. In 1925, he retained Pasadena architect Gordon Kaufman to design six adobe casitas, an office, lobby, and dining room. Total construction cost — which included more than 100,000 handcrafted adobe bricks, 60,000 roof tiles, and 5,000 floor tiles — ran about $150,000. Currently, the hotel is paying great homage to Frank Capra. Bedford Falls is the town in which the story It's a Wonderful Life occurs.
La Quinta Hotel opened in December of 1926. Inaugural guests included prominent San Francisco banker William Crocker and President Taft’s son, Charles. Soon thereafter, Morgan set about to strategically promote the resort as a hideaway for the Hollywood elite.
Thus began the hotel’s reign as a pampering refuge for film stars and business tycoons, among them Bette Davis, William Powell, Joan Crawford, Joel McCrea, Marlene Dietrich, Charles Boyer, Katherine Hepburn, Robert Montgomery, Ginger Rogers (who wed French actor Jacques Bergerac at the hotel in 1953), Richard Widmark, the DuPonts, and the Vanderbilts.

After strolling the grounds and dreaming of a return visit, we lingered in the footsteps of Mr. Capra.

The spectacular day reminded us that "It is a wonderful life" indeed.
"I always felt the world cannot fall apart
as long as free men see the rainbow,
feel the rain and hear the laugh of a child." -Frank Capra

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1 comments:

Four Points Bulletin said...

We stayed in La Quinta the last time we rented a house in the area. It is a super cute town, with lots of neat houses. We will have to check out the museum next time. Last time we focused on taking walks in the hills. Such a beautiful area. All of it.

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