Montana: Ghost Town Day
Our visit to Big Sky Country won't be a long one, yet we certainly started it off right.
After a stop in Missoula to gather travel information, we headed to Montana's Scenic Ghost Town Byway, a 26-mile unique drive across Montana's Garnet Range.It travels through an area once bustling with mining activity from the last quarter of the 19th century.
All along the route, informational plaques shared the history that happened here. We stopped at each and left with a greater knowledge of what these hardy souls endured.Sadly, some weren't so hardy.
We discovered old miner's cabins and even a warming hut.
This is where we called it a night. Although there are no publicly owned campgrounds in this part of the Garnet Range, we were allowed to camp on “Public Land”. It was scenic, peaceful, and perfectly located for our next day's explore of a ghost town.
Early morning was spent at Montana’s most intact ghost town. Garnet was a town that really wasn’t built to last.
Enterprising miners were more interested in extracting the riches below ground than building above. As a result, buildings grew quickly, most lacking foundations. They were small and easy to heat. Yet, a century after Garnet emerged, remnants of the town stand, hidden high in the Garnet Mountain Range east of Missoula.
Garnet was named for the semi-precious ruby-colored stone found in the area and it was a good place to live. The surrounding mountains were rich in gold-bearing quartz. There was a school, the crime rate was low, and liquor flowed freely in the town’s many saloons. The bawdy houses did a brisk business.
In the 1800s, miners migrated north from played-out placer mines in California and Colorado. Placer mining of gold or other minerals is done by washing the sand, gravel, etc. with running water, but by 1870 most area placer mining was no longer profitable.
The Garnet Mountains attracted miners who collected the gold but it was difficult with silver mines elsewhere drawing the miners out of the Garnet Mountains. However, in 1893, the repeal of the Sherman Silver Purchase Act set off a panic throughout the region. Silver mines closed, and within weeks thousands of unemployed miners were on to gold mining in the Garnets. Miners began to trickle back.
The gold "boom" began in 1895. By January 1898 nearly 1,000 people resided in Garnet. There were four stores, four hotels, three livery stables, two barber shops, a union hall, a school with 41 students, a butcher shop, a candy shop, a doctor’s office, an assay office, and thirteen saloons comprised the town. Eager miners and entrepreneurs built quickly and without planning. A haphazard community resulted. Most of the buildings stood on existing or future mining claims, and about twenty mines operated.
After 1900, many mine owners leased their mines out, the gold having become scarcer and harder to mine. By 1905, many of the mines were abandoned and the town’s population had shrunk to about 150. A fire in the town’s business district in 1912 destroyed may commercial buildings, most remaining residents moved away to defense-related jobs. By the 1940s, Garnet was a ghost town. Cabins were abandoned, furnishings included, as though residents were merely vacationing. Frank A. Davey still ran the store however, and the hotel stood intact.
In 1934, when President Roosevelt raised gold prices from $16 to $32 an ounce, Garnet revived. A new wave of miners moved into abandoned cabins and began re-working the mines and dumps. Then, World War II drew the population away again. The use of dynamite for domestic purposes was curtailed, making mining difficult. Garnet again became a ghost town. Once again Davey and a few others remained.
As for today, we explored these remaining testaments to a bygone era. This is Frank A. Davey's store, purchased in 1901 (and owned until his death in 1947). The building is one of the earliest in Garnet, built before 1898. Davey's Store sold, dry goods, shoes, jewelry, canned goods, mining tools, and cuts of meat, among other things. The store boasted a hardware section, an office that weighed gold, and in the 1910s functioned as the post office. Mr. Davey was THE GUY in town.
The meat and other perishables were stored in the ice house which also contained three secret compartments built into the walls. There, gold would safely await shipment down the hill. The annex was added to the east side of the store to keep a supply of essentials such as flour and sugar. These items were only sold in emergency situations, a policy that angered many of the towns people.
Before moving to Garnet, Davey worked in the grocery department of the Missoula Mercantile. Davey had received the patent for the Garnet Claim, so much of the town was built on his land. But it never made him rich.
When he died in 1947, while out walking to one of his mining claims, it was the Elk's organization that buried him because his assets could not cover the cost. His belongings, along with the store items, were auctioned off. With Davey's passing, Garnet officially became a ghost town.
The J.K. Wells Hotel was built in the winter of 1897 and was the most impressive building in town.
Mrs. Wells designed it after one she owned in Bearmouth. With its elaborate woodwork, it was equal to the luxurious buildings in Helena. Originally, one would have entered through beautifully carved doors with stained glass windows. To the left was the ladies' parlor, on the right stood the hotel office, and moving forward a guest would enter the grand dining room.
While this was a very modern building, there were no plaster walls or insulation. The walls were covered by cloth backed wallpaper. Heating the large building required two stoves in the dining room, rising warm air heated the upstairs rooms. Access to these rooms was by an oak staircase.
The outhouse behind the hotel was accessed by descending the steps from the second floor. The interior of the lower regions was heavily white washed for the ultimate in sanitary conditions.
After the Wells Hotel closed in the 30s, Frank Davey moved into the kitchen. Davey maintained several rooms for visiting friends, but in unkept rooms mushrooms grew out of the still made beds. When Davey died, every thing left in the hotel was sold at an auction.
There were over a dozen structures to examine and read about. My favorite had to be the Adams house, built between 1896 and 1900.
It was among the nicer homes in Garnet, although constructed from logs, not boards, as it appears. A covered passageway led to the woodshed and outhouse. Mrs. Jennie Adams filled her parlor with plants, which further added to its fine appearance, as did a white picket fence around the front yard.
The Adams family lived there from 1904 to 1927. Mrs. Adams had the Post Office in the house until 1910.I loved this painted thread spool used as a drawer pull.
As mentioned in the description, there was no insulation here. Walls were lined with anything discarded. I can't even imagine how difficult a Montana winter would have been here. I did think this cardboard box label was interesting- Tom Sawyer Shirts and Suits for Real Boys. The Elder Manufacturing Company, Inc. began producing clothing in 1916. Turns out, the tagline "for real boys" was some sort of valued guarantee. Wild stuff.
Some miners and saloon girls found what they were looking for, some used this time as a stepping stone to the next adventure, and many of these people left their stories to be told in these old towns. Preserving what is left of these old places gives all of us a chance to appreciate and respect bygone days and helps to us understand all the work and efforts of these pioneers. Our first Montana history lesson was a fantastic one!
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