The week begins...

We began our Monday having espresso with friends, meeting new friends and then discussing our volunteer activities with Gilberto.  The remainder of the day was pretty much spent meandering the ancient streets, still discovering.

To explain the photos, yes, that is a real trash truck and well-used broom. Quaint and efficient.

We found the parking photo quite practical.  This is the narrow, ancient Via Flaminia, constructed in 220 BC.  The Via Flaminia was an ancient Roman road used to cross the country to the Adriatic.  What other way to park on a narrow road, than on the sidewalk?!

We concluded our day with the Italian ritual La Passeggiata.  Each night, people take a leisurely stroll through the centro storico (historic center).  Some gather at the bar to watch the procession...
watching for things to gossip about; it is where new romances are on display as well as new shoes.  It is a rather dressy affair and quite a nice thing to do before dinner.   We were told we missed a very exciting Passeggiata last night and promised we would not make that mistake again.

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Il fine settimana...

How to describe our weekend?  I would have to say, "delightfully normal".  Friday night's dinner out with Laurie and Norma, along with their friend, Sarah (a delightful dining companion), started our weekend perfectly. I love the hours of conversation, delicious food and laughter.  There is always laughter at dinner!

Saturday was spent just being... long walks around town...
caffè on our terrace...followed by a nap (something I felt guilty doing in America).
We Italians nap since the Roman times – at least. It's more a physical need than a culture use. Have two hours for lunch break is generally the normal and taking a nap after lunch is common and natural for 50% of Italians – in hot summers it becomes more epidemic.

"Siesta" is always been connected to Latin countries and considered a sign of laziness – by Northern Europeans. The word itself come from Latin and means the sixth hour (of light), which is around midday. But everyone knows – in the south of Europe – a good nap does wonders for your productivity.For me, the nap allows me to stay up long enough to go out to dinner at 8 PM.

Today, we delighted in the nothingness that a Sunday offers... two espressos on our terrace, the completion of a self-indulgent paperback novel... and a stroll around the Spoleto Flea Market.  Once a month, vendors come to here to sell their new and old wares.  Some in fact, exemplifying the old adage, "One man's junk is another man's treasure." They line the Piazza Libertà with many colors and booths, all to their liking.  To be fair, some of them housed museum quality items...Impressive, old, well preserved and sometimes very expensive.  Regardless, we enjoyed the meandering on a beautifully sunny October morning, with no where to go and all day to get there.

Life is settling into una scanalatura (a groove) for us.

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Apartment life...

Today was a "stay home and get stuff done" day, excluding two trips to the local market.  Lunch was prepared and eaten at home, after a morning of unpacking and serious organizing.

Steve then tended his garden.  It was an idyllic, warm day in Umbria with each passing hour being announced to us by the chimes of the Church of San Gregorio, visible from our terrace and heard every 15 minutes. 


This beautiful building was mostly built in the 11th century on the site of an ancient oratory dedicated to St. Gregory, a local saint killed in a spectacle at Spoleto's Roman amphitheater in 304 AD. According to tradition, 10,000 other martyrs died along with him; they are honored here, too. 

There is never a need to wear a watch while passing the day here. 

Tante briciole di felicità... fanno un paniere di gioia
Italian to English Translation:
Crumbs of happiness... make a loaf of contentment.

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Happy Birthday Steve!

And what a Buon Compleanno it was!  After a final day of paperwork and running around town, we celebrated Steve's birthday... Italian style.

Aperitivi were followed by a spectacular dinner at Ristorante Sabatini on one of the main corso in Spoleto.  We dined on some of the most delicious food, thus far.  The gnocchi were potato sunshine.  The entire dining experience was exceptional.

A evening at the cinema followed, with a newly release movie, Bevenuti al Sud.
While it was high speed Italian, with a lot of Napoli dialect, we enjoyed it completely.  What we didn't understand we got by the reaction of the audience.  We found ourselves laughing more than we had in a very long time.  The theater, itself, was old school.  We sat in the balcony and if you wanted popcorn, it was microwaveable and you had to prepare it yourself.

The stroll home, through the deserted streets, made Steve's birthday magical for both of us!

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Business, as usual, in Italy...

Our day began with an intense storm and an electrical black out.  But embracing the normalcy of these events here, we began our day anyway. 

In order to stay, in Italy, for one year, we have eight days to register with the government for a Permesso di Soggiorno (permit to stay).  We went to the post office for the paperwork and had so many questions, we visited
the local Polizia to get some answers.  With what Italian we could muster and the help of our Comune friend, Gilberto, we are now on the path to legal residency.  Needless-to-say, today was a day of some stress, followed by fun.

We met Laurie and Norma for
caffè.   We then strolled the streets and window shopped while waiting for aperitivo time (happy hour).  There is a place, outside our apartment we wanted to experience, while trying to find a local red wine. Part of being in a new place is enjoying its traditions.  In Italy, having an aperitivo before dinner "wakes the stomach" for food.  A visit to the pasticceria completed the day.  Buon appetito!

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Introductions, laundry and rainstorms...

Each day, we are presented with new opportunities and experiences.  Today was no exception.  Gilberto, our liaison with the Commune di Spoleto, and Sandro, the Director of Culture and Tourism, introduced us to an impressive array of Spoletini. 

We were then shown incredible historic sights throughout the town.  The Roman House, 1st c. A.D. was the center of the ancient town, buried for centuries, only to be uncovered when the Town Hall was reconstructed in the 1800s.  The spectacular mosaic floors and collection of artifacts was a surprising discovery.

Our next stop, the Palazzo Comunale or Town Hall (13c), is the home of
Pinacoteca Comunale a wonderful collection of paintings dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries.  Also in the Hall are the government offices of Spoleto.  We were even shown the Mayor's office.  Needless-to-say, we felt honored and quite excited.

After making plans to continue our tour tomorrow, Steve and I had a sumptuous lunch of Indian food before heading to the Lava Piu.  While our laundry was finishing up, a large downpour began.  The kind people at the neighboring dry cleaners gave us "rain coats" and we made home, slightly drenched but very happy.

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Campello Sul Clitunno for lunch...

Tranquility can be found in many places and we discovered it in the quaint, ancient Comune di Campello Sul Clitunno, a few miles from home. We dined at Parco del Clitunno Trattoria, located at a trout farm.  While we ate, children were lakeside, catching numerous fish.  It was quite entertaining.

Norma and Laurie have an ambitious goal of introducing us to their favorite eateries, people and vistas.  I'm pretty certain a year will not be enough time!  Steve and I are very willing to give it a try, however!

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Tourists in our own town...

We had a rather diverse day:  grocery shopping; espresso in the public library; speaking to strangers (in Italian) and exploring some of the historic aspects of our town.

"Spoleto is a medieval hill town in central Italy famous for its summer music festival, Festival dei Due Mondi. Inhabited since prehistoric times, the lower parts of its wall are from the 6th century BC. The first Roman settlement, Spoletium, began in 241 BC and there are Roman remnants throughout Spoleto's historic center. Spoleto is a walled town built on a hillside with most of the sites in the compact upper town. Above Spoleto is a medieval Rocca and spanning the deep gorge to one side of the Rocca is Spoleto's most famous sight, Ponte delle Torri or Bridge of Towers."

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Spoleto sights...benissimo!

Discovery was the goal for today... exploring unknown streets and seeing unseen sights.  It was a successful day!

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Our friends Norma and Laurie arranged for the four of us to dine at Locanda Rovicciano. The only true way to 'kick off' a year in Spoleto!

Andrea is the chef/maître d' and Katiuscia is his wonderful wife/hostess/food server.  We met them when we were here, a year ago, and fell in love with them, their food, and the intimate setting of their gastronomic Eden.  It has begun!

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Spoleto...we're home!

Well, we're finally here.  Our Italian dream has come true.  The adventure begins!  We are as in love with our apartment as the first magical night. 

...e vissero felici e contenti
Italian to English Translation:
...and they lived happily ever after

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LAX to Roma...

Well, it's official... we are in Italy.  Our first two nights were spent in Rome, overcoming jetlag and spending time with our friends, Guenda and Maurizio.  Today, it was capuccini by the sea in Ostia.  It was the perfect way to be introduced to our new "home". 

"Traveling is the ruin of all happiness!
There's no looking at a building after seeing Italy."
--Fanny Burney

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