Ghost Towns & Cliff Dwellings

Our next Arizona history lesson was learned at the historic copper mining town of Jerome. Once known as the wickedest town in the west, Jerome was born a copper mining camp, growing from a settlement of tents into a roaring mining community.

After its founding in 1876, Jerome was at one time the fourth largest city in Arizona with the population peaking at around 15,000 in the 1920s. The Great Depression slowed the mining operation and the claim eventually went to Phelps Dodge, who still holds the claim to this day. World War II greatly increased the demand for copper, but after the war demand decreased dramatically. With Jerome’s economy completely dependent upon the demand for copper, Phelps Dodge Mine closed in 1953. The remaining population of around 50 to 100 people promoted the town as a historic ghost town. In 1967, Jerome was designated a National Historic District by the federal government.

"Today Jerome is a thriving tourist and artist hub with a population of around 450 people. The town resides above what was once the largest copper mine in Arizona which was producing an astonishing 3 million pounds of copper per month. Men and women from all over the world made their way to Arizona to find work and perhaps a new way of life. Today the mines may be silent, but Jerome has found new life as the largest ghost town in America. Once a thriving mining camp full of miners, bootleggers, gamblers, and prostitutes, now a bustling tourist destination full of artists, musicians, and gift shop proprietors."

We skipped the tourist area and headed to the Jerome State Historical Park located in and around the James S. Douglas Mansion. This spectacular home was built on the hill just above Mr. Douglas' Little Daisy Mine in 1916. Douglas designed the house as a hotel for mining officials and investors as well as for his own family. It featured a wine cellar, billiard room, marble shower, steam heat, and, much ahead of its time, a central vacuum system. Douglas was most proud of the fact that the house was constructed of adobe bricks that were made on the site. It truly is something to be proud of.

The museum is devoted to history of the Jerome area and the Douglas family. It features extensive historical exhibits of photographs, artifacts, and minerals in addition to a video presentation and a 3-D model of the town with its underground mines. One room, the Douglas library, is restored in fabulous period pieces. There are more displays outside along with a picnic area offering a beautiful panoramic view of the Verde Valley.

It the same year that he built his home, 1916, Mr. Douglas commissioned a Phoenix-based architecture firm to design The Little Daisy hotel to serve as lodging for his employees. Construction was completed in 1918 and over 600 people gathered on New Year’s Day to celebrate it’s grand opening. They admired it’s ultra-modern fixtures and dazzling lights over music, cigars, and a lavish feast. It is difficult to fathom the fanciness of it all for the time and the location. Wow.

Today, it is privately owned and is an event center.

Such interesting history!

"The working of mines has always exerted

such a deep influence on the evolution

of science and civilization

that one might compare the importance of mines

in the history of science

with that of temples in the history of art."

— George Sarton (1916)

Our final history lesson, at Montezuma Castle, is a bit older.

Over 600 years ago, Sinagua Indians lived in this cliff dwelling. Early settlers to the area assumed that the imposing structure was associated with the Aztec emperor Montezuma, but the castle was abandoned almost a century before Montezuma was born.

Its 'modern' history intrigues me. In December 1895, a group of concerned citizens organized the Arizona Antiquarian Association in response to the increasing loss of prehistoric relics and the destruction of archeological ruins. Within two years the Association had raised sufficient funds for repair work to the Montezuma Castle ruins. The site was withdrawn from the public domain by the General Land Office in 1901 as a provisional and protective measure until more permanent action could be taken.

On August 24, 1906, a few months after signing the Antiquities Act into law, President Theodore Roosevelt signed a draft proclamation for Montezuma Castle National Monument. It was noted for being “of the greatest ethnological value and scientific interest” and later as having “prehistoric ruins and ancient dwellings ... of great interest to the public”. The Monument was officially established on December 8 to include 160 acres. In 1917, the National Park Service began repairs and improvements that included new securely-attached ladders, ruins cleaning, damage repair, and scrubbing of graffiti. The first professional excavation took place in the spring of 1927.

Early visitors to the monument were allowed access to the structure by climbing a series of ladders up the side of the limestone cliffs. However, due to extensive damage to this valuable cultural landmark, public access of the ruins was discontinued in 1951.

Now the approximately 750,000 visitors every year enjoy the 1,658 acres of Montezuma Castle National Monument, one of the best-preserved cliff dwellings in the Southwest, by meandering on well defined trails. Informative plaques are everywhere, including next to foliage.

Catclaw Mimosa cracked us up because its nickname, the "wait-a-minute bush". It has the ability to hold up unwary hikers by catching their clothing in its dense, hook-shaped spines.

This kiosk, located along our meandering path, was very interesting for more than one reason. Surprisingly, early visitors to the monument were allowed access to the structure by climbing a series of ladders up the side of the limestone cliffs. However, due to extensive damage to this valuable cultural landmark, public access of the ruins was discontinued in 1951. No surprise there.

According to its signage, "It is no coincidence that this diorama made its debut at the same time ladders were removed and access to the cliff dwelling ended. Before the official end of guided tours of the cliff dwelling on October 1, 1951, park rangers had long been aware of and considered what to do about the impacts of so many people walking through the fragile site. If the Castle was going to be off-limits, a model was needed to show and interpret what the structure looked like inside. Created by the National Park Service's Museum Laboratory in Washington, DC, this diorama offered a look at the interior of the Castle and ended damage caused by visitation and vandalism."

Today the model still serves its initial purpose and acts as an artifact of the park's history. It reminds us of the continual work to balance a meaningful experience for today's visitors with preserving this place for people in the future. Plus, who doesn't love a diorama?!

I've always said that history can be found almost anywhere. What diversity and so close to one another.

Arizona's state motto is Ditat Deus, which is Latin for God Enriches. It seems He enriched this area with some truly spectacular gifts. Tomorrow promises us even more.

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HAERR TRIPPIN'

Ghost Towns & Cliff Dwellings

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