Our Sunday in Paris...

Yesterday, we left our apartment at 11 AM and didn't return until about 10 PM.  We took the Metro to Notre-Dame and did not get on another means of public transportation until we were heading home.  If you know Paris at all, that was an extensive amount of walking and we loved every kilometer of it!

We began the day at a wonderful bird and flower market.  The sounds and sights there were truly Parisian!  We then visited an admirable amount of the top historical locations. From touring Marie Antoinette's cell at
La Conciergerie to admiring the stain glass at Sainte-Chapelle, we did as much as our weary feet would carry us.

We paused to attend mass at
Cathédrale Notre-Dame (1160).  For being non-Catholics, we have been to some pretty spectacular church services in some very unforgettable locations.  This certainly was one of them. 

Archeological crypts, the amazing neighborhood English bookstore, Shakespeare & Co, concerts in Luxembourg Garden on a fall-like day- we absorbed everything Paris, including the rain. 

The
Panthéon demanded an explore.  One of the most important architectural achievements of its time and the first great neoclassical monument (final resting place of Alexander Dumas, Victor Hugo and Louis Braille).  It is also where, in 1851, physicist Léon Foucault demonstrated the rotation of the Earth by his experiment by constructing a 67 meter pendulum beneath the central dome.  Both Kegan and Steve thought this worth pondering.

We strolled down quaint rue, intimate neighborhoods and through numerous parks to our final destination- the Champs de Mars for a 'picnic' dinner.  It was one of those days that, at the end of it, you feel like you accomplished something!

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Sewers, L'Arc & so much more...

Today showed us the most diverse sides of Paris.  We began with the 280+ steps to the top of the Arc de Triomphe for an unbelievable view and a peek into the roof top gardens above the city. We then strolled.  With its cinemas, cafés, luxury specialty shops and clipped chestnut trees, the Avenue des Champs-Élysées is one of the most famous streets and one of the most expensive strips of real estate in the world.

Next we ventured below the city to do the
Musée des égouts de Paris (The Sewer Tour). 
Sewers have been draining wastewater in Paris since the beginning of the 13th Century, when the city's streets were paved and drains were built on orders from Philippe Auguste, the king of France from 1180 to 1223. Covered sewers were introduced during the reign of Napoléon Bonaparte, and today's network of more than 2,100 km (1,312 miles) of sewer tunnels was begun in 1850. The sandstone tunnels carry drainwater from the streets, sanitary sewers (now in separate pipes), mains for drinking water and the water used for street cleaning (the streets are washed every morning.  Paris is very clean), telecommunications cables, pneumatic tubes between post offices, and (or so one assumes) the occasional rat.

Until recent times, the Paris sewers also carried tourists: initially by carts that were suspended from the walkways along the tunnel walls, later by carriages drawn by a small locomotive, and--until the 1970s--in boats.  We walked.  At first Kegan couldn't understand why we would tour the sewers until he saw it for himself.  It is impressive if not a bit stinky!

A return to the Eiffel Tower followed for crepes and naps in the park.  We split up after this point for Kegan to go to the Musée de l'Armée and it's large collection of WWII artifacts while Steve and I meandered through Rodin's house and museum.  The artist's Thinker is always fun to pose by and to see all his works displayed in his gardens is pretty wonderful.

Our evening ended in a stroll through the 'seedier' side of Paris with dinner at the Place du Tertre... a reminder of the time when Montmartre was the mecca of modern art. At the beginning of the 20th century, many penniless painters, including Picasso, were living there.  French onion soup while a rainstorm occurred ended a rather perfect day.

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Museums, Operas & Crepes...

Today was one of those days where we walked for miles and saw so much.  It's truly hard to comprehend. 

We made a brief stop at Montemarte with promises to return on Monday.  This is the part of Paris that was the haunt of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and the original bohemians.  It's quirky and fun and we look forward to a more thorough experience of it.

On to the Opera!  The Palais Garnier is the thirteenth theater to house the Paris Opera since it was founded by Louis XIV in 1669. It was built on the orders of Napoleon III as part of the great Parisian reconstruction project carried out by Baron Haussmann. The project for an opera house was put out to competition and was won by Charles Garnier, an unknown 35-year-old architect. Building work, which lasted fifteen years, from 1860 to 1875, was interrupted by numerous incidents, including the 1870 war, the fall of the Empire and the Commune. The Palais Garnier was inaugurated on 5 January 1875.  We delighted in being amongst amazing architecture and incredible history.

No trip to Paris is complete without a visit to the Louvre.  Heir to the century of the Enlightenment and the French Revolution, the Louvre was quickly accepted as the "museum among museums" and since then it has remained a model and a recognized authority. Founded in 1793 as a museum for all, it celebrates humanity's long journey with the remarkable scope of a collection that spans thousands of years, reaches from America to the borders of India and China, and is highlighted by such iconic, universally admired works as the Mona Lisa, the Venus de Milo and the Victory of Samothrace (pictured).

The high-tech architectural marvel, Centre Pompidou (1977), was a must visit for Kegan
with its exposed skeleton of brightly colored tubes for mechanical systems.  He loved the building but not so much the modern art exhibit found within.  I found Robert Delaunay's Le Poete Philippe Soupault to be rather novel among the Ernsts, Warhols, Pollocks and Kandinskys.

Our day ended with crepes and a long saunter through the Les Halles shopping district.  We are tired yet happy tourists eager for tomorrow's promise of adventure... after a good night's sleep!

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Versailles and the Musée d'Orsay...

After a délicieux breakfast of a baguette and brie, we hit Paris running.  We spent hours at Versailles learning about the history and opulence of the reign of Louis XIII and his heirs. The gardens are were the highlight for Kegan.  To wander then lay about in the cool summer grasses where the royals hunted is a pretty fun way to pass an afternoon.

The Musée d'Orsay was a must see to reacquaint ourselves with our favorites and to discover artists we have never know.  I really loved
Lucien Lévy-Dhurmer's Portrait de Mademoiselle Carlier.  Something about her just drew me to her.  The museum itself is one of our favorites- intimate with a great deal of history.  "The museum was installed in the former Orsay railway station, built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. So the building itself could be seen as the first "work of art" in the Musée d'Orsay, which displays collections of art from the period 1848 to 1914."

What a day of wonders and walking!

"I love Paris in the Summer,
When it sizzles."

-Cole Porter

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