More of Québec's Hidden Treasures
Most summertime events have concluded so life has slowed to allow us to just explore aimlessly... which is one of our favorite travel activities.
There's nothing too remarkable about this renovation on our street. The town is full of old becoming new again.What I found remarkable was what these construction workers were looking at. While dismantling the fireplace, they discovered a burlap bag stuffed with old newspapers. The owners must have not used fire as a heating source and plugged the draft the fireplace caused with this bundle of history almost 100 years ago.
La Presse was founded in 1884 by William-Edmond Blumhart in Montreal. The headline of the day, of this particular issue, (8 Juin 1927) was Le Canada Respond A Washington: "Federal Government Sends Note to Secretary of State Kellogg Pointing Out Serious Trouble Caused by New Immigration Border Regulations." Interesting.
When looking for something spectacular to see, a church is always an option. Just how many churches are in Old Québec city? Currently, an incredible wealth of religious diversity can be felt in one basilica, two cathedrals (including a basilica-cathedral), 130 churches and 20 chapels (including 10 conventual), all of which bear witness to the many origins that colonized the region: Catholics, Anglicans, and other Protestants.
Today we met Marie de l’Incarnation at the Monastère des Ursulines.
On August 1, 1639, three Ursuline nuns from France, including Marie de l’Incarnation, who spearheaded the missionary endeavor they had come to America to carry out, landed at Québec. Two years later a first monastery was completed, and the Ursulines opened the colony’s first school for young girls—at first a few Aboriginal girls, then students of French origin. Today this pioneering institution is an impressive teaching complex that has preserved the Ursuline’s original mission intact to this day.
Marie de l’Incarnation, born Marie Guyart (1599-1672) was also an author whose writings are among the most important accounts of the founding of the colony of New France and the establishment of the Roman Catholic Church in the Americas. Her work as a teacher helped to lay the foundations for formal education in Canada.
I was drawn to this Monument to Religious Teaching Communities. Placed on the 325th anniversary of Marie L'Incarnation's death, this bronze sculpture by Jules Lasalle is a tribute to all of the dedicated people who followed Marie’s example by educating generations of Québec’s youth. The outstretched hand holding a feather rests upon a stack of books.
Next came some shopping in history. I'm telling you, history is everywhere in Québec! According to owners, Richard and Peter Simons, of Simons Department Stores, “Fashion has been our passion since 1840! A uniquely different and inspiring fashion retailer, we are known for offering the most sought-after styles and looks from the world's design capitals and providing a level of service available nowhere else. For five generations, we have been renowned for our devotion to customer care. Today, our more than dozen stores are a dazzling tribute to architecture, art, attentive service, and to a shopping experience second to none.”
In 1870, John Simons moved his shop to 20 côte de la Fabrique, where it remains to this day, along with the Simons head office. The building's charming 19th century façade and interior arches are just a few of the architectural elements that bear witness to the store's rich past. Wow!
Remember the mention of art, when describing their stores? The Simons family have preserved some incredible artworks including this, The Cupola of Saint-Amand-les-Eaux (I wish the photo would have done it justice). This cupola, attributed to Walter Crane and made with Italian glass mosaic tiles, used to adorn Château Bouchart, which was built in the late 19th century by a prosperous industrial family in France. The bright and gilded work depicts the story of two knights competing to win the heart of a princess. After being restored by two specialists from Italy, the cupola was installed in this store in 2005. This place really is something quite extraordinary.
Art isn't just found in churches and department stores, more masterpieces were discovered on the support piers of the overpass. Such detail.
I am a huge fan of trompe l'oeil and this muralist does it well.
Maison François-Xavier-Garneau is typical of mid-19th century bourgeois homes in Québec. Its name refers to its most famous occupant, a self-taught intellectual to whom we owe the first book on the history of Canada.
The newly built house had been designed for a successful Québec merchant by famous architect Joseph-Ferdinand Peachy (whose surname people switched to the more French-sounding “Piché”). Here, Peachy, a former student of Charles Baillargé, borrowed the Neoclassical style highly popular with the era’s merchant class.The house is really famous because of its one-time occupant. On the night of February 2, 1866, historian François-Xavier Garneau suffered a fatal epileptic seizure. Barely 56 years old, Garneau had sealed his reputation among Québec’s intellectual elite despite his lack of formal training and his spotty education. In response to the Durham Report of 1839, which described French Canadians as “a people with no literature and no history,” a young Garneau wrote the first complete history of French Canada, a work that earned him the title of national historian.
I'm not quite sure what this roof eave adornment was about. I'll have to find its story.
This book has been recommended to me my numerous people at the Literature & Historical Society's Morrin Centre. I decided I had to buy it and read it while I'm here. I couldn't be happier that I did.
I'm not quite sure what this roof eave adornment was about. I'll have to find its story.
This book has been recommended to me my numerous people at the Literature & Historical Society's Morrin Centre. I decided I had to buy it and read it while I'm here. I couldn't be happier that I did.
Its author, Louise Penny, a Canadian, has penned numerous mystery novels set in the Canadian province of Quebec centered on the work of francophone Chief Inspector Armand Gamache of the Sûreté du Québec. Bury Your Dead takes place here and its locations are incredibly familiar to me. The synopsis reads, "As Quebec City shivers in the grip of winter, its ancient stone walls cracking in the cold, Chief Inspector Armand Gamache plunges into the most unusual case of his celebrated career. A man has been brutally murdered in one of the city's oldest buildings - a library where the English citizens of Quebec safeguard their history (the aforementioned Morrin Centre). And the death opens a door into the past, exposing a mystery that has lain dormant for centuries...a mystery Gamache must solve if he's to apprehend a present-day killer." It is beyond cool that the characters walk down our street. They grab coffee in places we have dined and they have introduced us to new places we plan to discover. Dinner was at one such place.
"The two men and Henri set out along rue St-Jean, past the restaurants and tourist shops, to a tiny side street called rue Couillard, and there they found Chez Temporel. They'd been coming to this café for fifteen years, ever since Superintendent Émile Comeau had retired to old Québec City, and Gamache had come to visit, to spend time with his mentor, and to help with the little chores that piled up."
"The two men and Henri set out along rue St-Jean, past the restaurants and tourist shops, to a tiny side street called rue Couillard, and there they found Chez Temporel. They'd been coming to this café for fifteen years, ever since Superintendent Émile Comeau had retired to old Québec City, and Gamache had come to visit, to spend time with his mentor, and to help with the little chores that piled up."
"Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There's a crack in everything.
That's how the light gets in."
- Louise Penny
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