There is an infinite number of wonders that awaits a visitor to Edinburgh and a great deal of it is completely free. I began my day at the incredible National Museum of Scotland.

I was in the museum for almost two hours and I barely scratched the surface on the 1st floor. With six floors of exhibits, I probably would never finish, even if I had a week. What a fantastic National treasure.

Our second amazement of the day was at this church, Canongate Kirk. Scotland's King James VII (aka James II of England) arranged for the parish church of Canongate adjacent to the Palace of Holyroodhouse to become the Chapel of the Order of the Thistle, and ordered that money left at the disposal of the Crown by a merchant, Thomas Moodie, should be used to build a new building.  The new building, which was started in 1688, was quite unlike anything else built in Scotland at that time.

We came for the free lunchtime concert which featured the music of Mendelssohn, Fuchs, and Ireland. It was performed by the Countess of Wessex's String Orchestra (CWSO). These musicians from The Royal Corps of Army Music, one of 14 Regular Army Bands in the British Army, played for the King just yesterday, and here they were providing us with the most fabulous musical interlude. This brief video gives a glimpse on the magic.

"Ah, music," he said, wiping his eyes.

"A magic beyond all we do here!”

 -J.K. Rowling

The finale of our day was remarkable. When our dates were secured for our stay in Edinburgh, I discovered that MADNESS was happening. For those who don't know, Madness is an English ska and pop band from London, who formed in 1976. One of the most prominent bands of the late 1970s and early 1980s two-tone ska revival, they continue to perform with six of the seven members of their original line-up. Madness' most successful period was from 1980 to 1986, when the band's songs spent a total of 214 weeks on the UK Singles Chart and when we fell in love with them, too!

The concert was held at the Edinburgh Castle and it truly was madness getting into the venue (organized, polite madness as the Scots do). There were so many die-hard Madness fans. I so loved it all. What infectious excitement ensued!

This guy gets the award as the #1 fan with the band's logo tattooed on the back of his bald head. THAT is devotion!

What a venue!

What a backdrop!

What a night!

What unforgettable memories!

Madness' opening number, One Step Beyond, captured in this video, started the night as only this band could! The festiveness never stopped.

On the way home it was interesting to see that the masses, who did not attend the concert, were huddled, around any television they could find, to watch football. Wild stuff.

When traveling, there is nothing better than staying in the heart of a city. To wander its streets, virtually alone, adds a whole new level of amazement.

"The Scots think of it as their capital;

they’re too possessive,

Edinburgh belongs to the world.”

-Richard Demarco

We booked our day at Edinburgh's #1 attraction way back in April. I'm so glad we did as when we arrived, it was completely sold out.

Following the ‘Union of the Crowns’ of 1603, Edinburgh Castle was rarely visited by the reigning monarch, but from the 1650s it grew into a significant military base. Defenses were rebuilt and enhanced in response to the Jacobite Risings of 1689–1746. New gun batteries were constructed and new barracks were added to house the many soldiers and officers.

The castle defenses have evolved over hundreds of years. Interestingly, the castle is the most besieged place in Britain. In 1639, the castle was captured in just 30 minutes, taken by Covenanter forces led by the distinguished General Alexander Leslie. A Jacobite force failed to capture the castle during the Rising of 1715 thanks to poor planning. The ladder they brought to scale the ramparts turned out to be too short.

Okay, you get the idea of its vast history and various ownerships. It's overwhelming. Though parts of it remain in military use, the castle is now a world-famous visitor attraction. It’s also an iconic part of the Old and New Towns of Edinburgh World Heritage Site.

This gentleman was in period costume to draw attention to the anniversary of the Battle of the Somme. The 1916 Somme offensive was one of the largest and bloodiest battles of the First World War (1914-18). The opening day of the attack, 1 July 1916, saw the British Army sustain 57,000 casualties, the bloodiest day in its history. The campaign finally ended in mid-November after an agonizing five-month struggle that failed to secure a breakthrough. We know so little of British history.

The Honours of Scotland are the oldest Crown jewels in Britain. Made of gold, silver and precious gems, they were created in Scotland and Italy during the reigns of James IV and James V. The crown, scepter and sword of state were first used together for the coronation of a monarch in 1543, when nine-month-old Mary, Queen of Scots came to the throne.

The story of the Scottish Crown Jewels (regalia) is stranger than fiction. First of all they were hidden to stop them falling into English hands. Then, following the Treaty of Union in 1707, the ancient crown jewels of Scotland disappeared for a century. Rumors circulated that the English had removed them to London. However it was one of Scotland’s most celebrated literary sons who rediscovered them.

Long story short, when the Scottish Parliament was dissolved in 1707, the jewels were locked in a chest in the Crown Room at Edinburgh Castle where they remained, forgotten. Of all Scots who have formed their countrymen and women’s perceptions of Scottish history, Sir Walter Scott was one of the most important. The Prince Regent (later George IV) was so impressed by Sir Walter Scott’s work that in 1818 he gave him permission to search Edinburgh Castle for the Royal Scottish regalia. The searchers eventually found them in the little strong room at Edinburgh Castle locked in an oak chest, covered with linen cloths, exactly as they had been left in 1707. I was happy to see I'm not the only one who hides things and can't find them again!

We even got to visit the birthplace of King James VI, the son of Mary Queen of Scots.

The Scottish National War Memorial was breathtaking.

One in five Scots who enlisted during the First World War never came home. This fitting memorial to those who died in both world wars and in conflicts since 1945 was made by some of Scotland’s finest artists and craftspeople.

Sculpture and stained glass depict moving scenes from WWI. Other works symbolize courage, peace, justice and survival of the spirit. Animal figures portray the virtues and vices. Also within are numerous hardbound ledgers listing the deceased hero from each of the military branches and from every conflict. To see the large tomes was as powerful as the building itself. WOW.

I was incredibly impressed by this exquisite replica of the embroidery created by Mary Queen of Scots during her 19 year exile in England. There are 37 needlework pictures, each one with a story to tell. I wish I knew the measurements because it is huge, covering a great deal of the wall.

The original embroideries were sewn after Mary's enemies forced her to abdicate her throne and flee Scotland. Even as she worked on the pictures, her supporters were besieged in Edinburgh Castle in the Lang Siege. Their surrender marked the effective end of Mary's hopes of regaining the Scottish crown.

By the way, in this panel, the disembodied hand reaches down from the heavens to prune an unfruitful branch of a vine. The Latin text reads virescit vulnere virtus – virtue flourishes from its Centerpiece wounds’. Mary sent the original embroidery to the Duke of Norfolk, with whom she was considering marriage. It was subsequently used as evidence against the duke in his treason trial, its design interpreted as meaning the childless Elizabeth had to be replaced by the fruitful Mary as Queen of England. Norfolk was executed in 1572.

We were supposed to tour the castle on July 3rd, but the King began his official stay in Scotland by receiving the keys to the city of Edinburgh - which is celebrating its 900th anniversary. It turns out it this key he received.

A gold tag is engraved documenting each monarch's visit. There was great proof of Queen Elizabeth's love of Edinburgh.

Not everyone who came to the castle enjoyed their stay. Even royals were sometimes known to complain about the draughts. But life was truly grim for many of the prisoners who were locked up in the vaults below Crown Square. As a formidable stronghold, the castle was the most secure lock-up in Scotland. Between 1757 and 1814 the vaults became home to many hundreds of prisoners of war.

Like the prisons we've visited prior on this trip, there was graffiti. This one depicts the hanging of Lord Nord. He was the British Prime Minister (1770-1782). It was his government's crippling taxes on the American colonies that led in 1773 to the Boston Tea Party and in 1776, to the Declaration of Independence. Timely since we were here on July 4th.

When we read about the rations served to prisoners, we thought them very generous, until we read down the list to what the Americans were given. "Each prisoner received a daily ration of 2 pints of beer, 1 1/2 pounds of bread, 3/4 pound of beef, 1/2 pint  of pease (pudding) every other day, 1/4 pound of butter and 6 ounces of cheese, instead of beef on Saturdays. Because the Americans were officially regarded as pirates, they received only 1 pound of bread a day.

Our afternoon tea rations were exponentially better than those of our countrymen who came before us.

There is so much to see, do, and experience in Edinburgh. This town is much like our tea treats... little bits of yum which all add up to a delightful fullness you thought impossible on first glance. I'll need to return.

"It seemed as if the rock and castle

assumed a new aspect every time I looked at them...

I don’t wonder that anyone residing in Edinburgh

should write poetically.”

-Washington Irving