Art, Goodbyes, & Beethoven

With 1:30 PM train tickets secured, Eileen and Ian's morning was free to explore a bit more. Our goal was to see the treasures of the Calvet Museum. This was my second visit, yet new gems were discovered.



I was taken by this Indian Maiden. Steve wondered how a French sculptor, in the 1800s, would know of American Indians. I knew thanks to the book I read on the cruise (The Greater Journey: Americans in Paris). In 1827,  six members of the Osage tribe were taken to France and were toured about. The artist must have seen them. Interesting, right?




I don't know how I missed this work the first time I visited. This piece, by Antoine Fort-Bras (born Forbera in Venice, ?, died in Avignon, 1690), has to be one of my favorites. The trompe-l'oeil rendition of Le Chevalet du Peintre (Painter's Easel) is one you have to see in person to grasp its masterpiece status. Trompe-l'oeil means to fool the eye. This is a completely FLAT painting. All 3-D dimensions are the creation of Antoine. It is crazy amazing. As a matter of fact, it was in the Louvre until 1956. It's THAT good.
An anecdote, regarding this painting, was reported by Charles de Brosse in the 18th century: "At the back of the room is an easel on which we have placed a not quite finished painting, representing the Empire of Flora, the original of which is by Poussin. The painter's palette and his brushes had remained next to the painting Above, on a piece of paper, the drawing of the painting made in red chalk (I saw all this, both from a distance and up close, without finding anything there that was worth paying attention to). Stop there; but my surprise was unparalleled, when I wanted to take the drawing, to find that all of this was not true, and that the whole thing was only one painting entirely painted in oil. If I were in a position to have this painting, I would happily give ten thousand francs for it."

Nicholas Mignard, also known as Mignard d’Avignon, was a French painter known for his religious and mythological scenes and portraits. He spent most of his active life in Avignon creating religious and mythological paintings for religious institutions and stately homes but ended his career as court painter in Paris.
As you can see his work is big and very intense but also incredible.
Coffees and treats were in one of our favorite little parks.
I thought this Little Free Library, in the park, was rather apt. It is a gift from Avignon's Sister City, Colchester. So dang cool.
You have to love French mail vechiles!
This was the first of the Theater Windows of Avignon that I've been able to see at street level. I will not tire of the search to find all 70 of them. I wonder if this year's will be painted while we are here.
Our final destination was at Grenier à sel. This former salt granary of the city, whose origins date back to the 14th century, is located in the heart of Avignon, in the immediate vicinity of the Palais des Papes. Demolished several times, it was rebuilt in 1758 by the architect Jean-Ange Brun and classified as a historic monument in 1984, before being rehabilitated by the architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte in 1989. Facing the Rhône, with its beautiful Louis façade XV, it recalls through its architecture and its location the importance of salt in the society of the Ancien Régime.
We visited the Grenier à sel for the last day of its current exhibit on Beethoven. "Based on the experience of this extraordinary genius, both deaf and socially isolated, but also the composer of Ode to Joy, which would become the European anthem, the exhibition LUDWIG VAN – Listen to hear explores the different facets of listening. Whether physiological, mental, social or political, it is omnipresent in each of us. Do we know how to listen ? Do we need to listen to each other to get along better? What if we were deaf without knowing it? The exhibition tour takes the visitor to the heart of listening and its multiple dimensions, by questioning their own perception of sounds and others."
Our 'journey' was in three stages. 1. What is listening? Bone conduction listening installations, testimonies from deaf musicians, exhibitions of old acoustic cornets, discovery of sound illusions, immersive installation, and a documentary (which was lost on us due to us not knowing French). We 'got' what it was trying to relay.




Stage #2 was from self-perception to listening to others. "Perceive the world within us as well as that which surrounds us, through video and literary extracts ranging from the web series Dear future me to Peer Gynt, in going through film clips."

Stage #3 was Towards Collective Understanding. I liked, and understood, the Red Phone. Which asked the question, "What is a listener?" Since the 60s, listening centers have sprung up all over France and Europe. They are run by teams of counsellors who take turns on the telephone 7 days a week to listen to people in distress. These volunteers, professional listeners, are trained to welcome the word of others, without preconceived ideas. I had to ponder the concept of whether we hear even when we hear.

I think this is one of those exhibits that will be thought of long after. Interesting! Just another diverse day in Avignon.

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